Many popular houseplants—think monstera, pothos, rubber plant, and the ever-so-trendy fiddle leaf fig tree—come from tropical climates and require lots of work, especially if you live in a dry climate, or a climate with extreme temperatures, to help them thrive. If you love the look of houseplants but have found plant parenting challenging, or know that your space isn’t well suited for the proper sunlight, temperature, and humidity required to keep them alive, faux or artificial plants are an excellent alternative.

The best fake plants, at a glance

• Best snake plant: West Elm, Faux Potted Sansevieria Plant ($159-$179)
• Runner-up snake plant: Hollyone, Artificial Snake Plant ($29)
• Best taro leaf plant: Der Rose, Taro Leaf and Greenery Leaf Faux Plant With Pot ($18)
• Best fiddle leaf fig tree: 1-800 Flowers Faux Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree 47″ ($100)
• Best pothos plant: Hearth & Hand with Magnolia, Faux Variegated Pothos Hanging Plant ($25)
• Best donkey tail plant: West Elm, Faux Potted Donkey Tail Plant ($39-$59)
• Best eucalyptus tree: Diiger, Artificial Eucalyptus Tree Plant ($90)
• Best zamifolia plant: Primrue, Faux Foliage Zamifolia Plant ($100)
• Best succulent: Kurrajong, Farmhouse Artificial Plant in Pot ($30)
• Best spiderwort plant: West Elm, Faux Potted Spiderwort Plant ($39)
• Best yucca plant: Amazon Basics, Artificial Yucca Plant ($62)
• Best monstera plant: Viagdo, Artificial Monstera Deliciosa Plant ($65)
• Best rubber tree: West Elm, Faux Potted Rubber Tree ($127-$406)

When you think of fake plants, you might think of sad-looking plastic or fabric-based plants that look anything but the real deal, but artificial plants have come a long way. In fact, some of them are so realistic that it’s hard to tell they aren’t actually alive. To find the best artificial plants, you need to first know where to shop, and we have had lots of luck at Amazon, Target, West Elm, and Pottery Barn. From a stunning snake plant that looks exactly like its live counterpart to a realistic-looking pothos plant and everything in between, here are our top picks for the best fake plants online.

West Elm, Faux Potted Sansevieria Plant, $159-$179

West Elm’s collection of faux plants is truly outstanding and so realistic. One of the most impressive varieties in its collection is the Faux Potted Sansevieria Plant, aka a fake snake plant, that looks so real that you’ll have everyone fooled. The plant comes in both dark green and green with yellow edges in two sizes and a small and sleek plastic plant pot that looks great on its own, or can easily be placed inside a ceramic planter for a more elevated look.

Dimensions: 8” x 38”
Weight: 10.7lbs
Colors: Green, green multi

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Hollyone, Artificial Snake Plant — $29.00

For another snake plant option that is more affordable than West Elm’s, consider the Hollyone Artificial Snake Plant from Amazon. This faux plant costs less than $30 and looks just like a Black Robust snake plant, which features a darker leaf with monochrome striping as well as five other snake plant varieties to choose from, depending on your personal preference.

Dimensions: 6” x 16.5” x 4.9”
Weight: n/a
Colors: 6

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Der Rose, Taro Leaf and Greenery Leaf Faux Plant With Pot (2) — $18.00

These artificial plants are so lush and perfectly green, nobody will know they’re not the real thing unless they really examine them. Even the stones look realistic. Since this set comes with two plants (and the pots are are on the smaller side), we envision these on a nightstand, office desk, or kitchen table. They make for a calming centerpiece or bedroom decor—with no hassle, of course. And, well, you can’t beat the price. They have excellent reviews from shoppers, with one writing, “I love these plants!! they are perfect, study, and well-made!!”

Dimensions: 11.3” x 4.3” x 4.3”
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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1-800 Flowers, Faux Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree — $100.00

Rather than dealing with the mood swings of an actual fiddle-leaf fig tree, buy this one instead. It’s just as gorgeous as the real thing and comes potted in a rattan basket with faux soil (which is also looks as real as actual dirt). It’s compressed upon arrival, so once it’s unwrapped, spruce up the leaves and flounce up the stems to give it some life. From there, all you have to do is enjoy its beauty—no watering or repotting necessary.

Dimensions: 47″
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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Hearth & Hand with Magnolia, Faux Variegated Pothos Hanging Plant — $25.00

Pothos are some of the easiest houseplants to care for, but if you don’t have the right lighting, they can still give you a hard time. If you love the look of a satin pothos plant, consider snagging this Faux Variegated Pothos Hanging Plant from Hearth & Hand with Magnolia at Target, which is inspired by the satin variety. The artificial plant costs less than $25, which is about the price you would pay for a live satin pothos of the same size—and have incredibly realistic-looking leaves. On top of that, it comes in a super chic hanging basket that meshes well with a variety of home decor styles.

Dimensions: 12” x 14” x 14”
Weight: 1.08lbs
Colors: 1

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West Elm, Faux Potted Donkey Tail Plant, $39-$59

If you love trailing succulents, you will hardly be able to tell the difference between a live donkey tail plant and this Faux Potted Donkey Tail Plant from West Elm. The artificial houseplant comes in both small and medium sizes and comes with a pot that looks beautiful on its own but can also be easily placed inside a different pot, depending on your style.

Size options: 2 (small, medium)
Dimensions: small is 6.3″ x 12.6″ x 12.6″; pot is 4.5″ x 4″
medium is 6″ x 7.5″ x 18.5″; pot is 5.1″ x 5.1″
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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Diiger, Artificial Eucalyptus Tree Plant — $90.00

Indoor trees can really liven up a place but they can also be hard to look after, which is why we love the Diiger Artificial Eucalyptus Tree Plant from Amazon. This artificial tree is six feet tall and comes in a small garden pot that can easily be spruced up by placing it inside a chic indoor pot. The leaves and branches are also so realistic, it’s hard to tell that it’s not a real tree. On top of that, it costs less than most live eucalyptus trees of this size, sans the risk of it dying.

Dimensions: 7″ x 8″ x 71″
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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Primrue, Faux Foliage Zamifolia Plant — $100.00

Zamifolia plants don’t require a lot of work or even a lot of sunlight. However, if you’re in a space that gets too little light, they can still give you a hard time. Lighten up the darkest corner of your space with a little plant love, thanks to the Primrue Faux Foliage Zamifolia Plant from Wayfair. This 35-inch plant features nine sprigs of real-looking leaves that will stay that way forever without ever going brown. It also comes in a small black pot that is used as the base and can be placed inside a ceramic planter for a more elevated and realistic feel.

Dimensions: 35” x 18” x 18”
Weight: 3.8lbs
Colors: 1

 

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Kurrajong, Farmhouse Artificial Plant in Pot — $30.00

Small succulent plants are one of our favorite ways to spruce up a space. However, depending on where you live, they don’t always do well indoors (or at all). For a climate-friendly alternative, consider the Kurrajong Farmhouse Artificial Plant in Pot, which looks so real that it will make you do a double take. Inspired by the look of a real succulent, this faux plant features supple and spikey leaves that look super realistic without the stress of remembering to water it. On top of that, it comes in a super chic cement gray plant pot, so it’s ready for any indoor (or even patio) space.

Dimensions: 4.5″x 4.5″ x 8″
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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West Elm, Faux Potted Spiderwort Plant — $39.00

Plants are an easy way to add a touch of color to your home, thanks to their lush green leaves. But, if you want to add a little more color to your space, go with the West Elm Faux Potted Spiderwort Plant, which boasts realistic variegated leaves in green with a touch of white and pink. On top of the realistic greenery, this fake houseplant comes in a stylish ceramic pot with fake dirt that will make others think you have a green thumb.

Dimensions: 26″ x 19″ x 9″
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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Amazon Basics, Artificial Yucca Plant with Plastic Nursery Pot — $62.00

A yucca plant is an excellent addition to bare corners in homes and offices alike. However, not every space has enough sunlight to keep these plants happy. No matter what your lighting situation looks like, the Amazon Basics Artificial Yucca Plant with Plastic Nursery Pot will thrive. This plant stands at 40 inches tall and comes in a plastic black nursury pot that looks good on its own but can also be easily covered in a chic ceramic pot with some moss on top for some added foliage styling.

Dimensions: 19.7” x 19.7” x 40”
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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Pottery Barn Teen, Fiddle Leaf Artificial Tree — $116.00

Fiddle leaf fig trees are, without a doubt, one of the hardest houseplants to care for and are notorious for drooping and dropping their leaves with any slight change. If you’re frustrated with your fiddle, you can get the same look with a faux variety for about the same price as a real one at Pottery Barn. This artificial tree features one stem that stands up straight with 19 leaves for a more lush appeal. On top of that, it comes in a beautiful ceramic planter that is ready to style in your home.

Dimensions: 14″ x 14″ x 42″
Weight: 7.25lbs
Colors: 1

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Viagdo, Artificial Monstera Deliciosa Plant — $65.00

Monsteras are another popular houseplant, but they do require the right amount of sunlight to remain so regal-looking. For the best fake monstera plant, consider the Viado Artificial Monstera Deliciosa Plant, which features large split leaves that look so realistic for a fake plant. The best part about this plant is that all of the leaves have a wire base, so you can bend them into shape and get the plant to look the way you want it (which is definitely not always the case with real monsteras).

Dimensions: 6″ x 6″ x 46.8″
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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West Elm, Faux Potted Rubber Tree, $127-$406

Rubber trees are typically good options for those who can’t keep fiddle leaf fig trees alive, as they’re a little more durable than the finicky fig. However, they’re not entirely resilient, so a faux rubber tree might be a better option for your home. If you’re on the hunt for one that looks super realistic, you might have a hard time finding one as most definitely look fake, with the exception of the Faux Potted Rubber Tree from West Elm. Inspired by the classic dark green leaf variety, this rubber tree comes in both 3 feet and 6 feet tall with the option to include a stunning modern planter, for a more authentic look.

Size options: 3′, 6′
Dimensions: 3-foot plant is 24″x 39″; pot is 12″ x 12″
6-foot plant is 24″ x 68.5″; pot is 14″ x 15″
Weight: n/a
Colors: 1

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In essence, the set-up of your home can play a role in your longevity because of the often passive ways in which we make everyday lifestyle decisions, like what to eat and when to move. “For example, Cornell found that up to 90 percent of the food choices we make each day are unconscious,” says Buettner. “So, even if I were to convince you to make good conscious decisions about what you eat, and get you to remember to make those decisions for the next 30 years, that would only cover a fraction of the total number of food decisions you’d be making daily.”

“[Blue Zones residents] live in environments that nudge them unconsciously toward healthier behaviors, like moving more and eating plants.” —Dan Buettner, longevity expert

Instead, to ensure those frequently unconscious lifestyle decisions follow a longevity-promoting course, you can take steps to engineer your surroundings so that a healthy, safe choice is the default. In that realm, design considerations as seemingly mundane as where you place your TV, how your bedroom is organized, and the height of your furniture can all factor into a longevity-boosting home.

And ever since the start of the pandemic, that couldn’t be more important to prioritize. “We spend about 90 percent of our time indoors these days,” says Ryan Frederick, CEO of SmartLiving360, a real-estate development firm that specializes in housing for healthy aging, and author of Right Place, Right Time: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing a Home for the Second Half of Life. In Frederick’s research on home design for mature populations, he’s found that incorporating elements of mood-boosting biophilic (aka nature-inspired) design and taking care to address accessibility can also help make any home a longevity-enhancing machine.

Below, the experts share their best home design tips for longevity, based on how the longest-living and healthiest seniors outfit their spaces.

9 home design tips for longevity, according to healthy-living experts

1. Put your TV in a room that’s far from your kitchen

We’re not going to say you can’t ever dive into a bowl of popcorn or even eat a full meal while propped on the couch—but studies have found that people tend to eat past the point of fullness when they’re also watching a show. If you have to walk several steps (or even down the stairs) to get to your kitchen from wherever you typically post up for TV time, you’re not only less likely to snack mindlessly, but also, if you do get up to grab a snack, you’re doing a little bit of walking, too. “It’s that type of regular, built-in physical activity that’s easy to maintain,” says Buettner. “And over time, it can have a more consistent effect than a gym membership, which we’ve found most people use fewer than twice a week.”

2. Keep a shoe rack by the door

According to Buettner, this is a one-two punch for longevity. With a rack by the door, you’ll be more likely to take off your shoes right when you get home, a common habit among people in Okinawa, Japan (one of the Blue Zones regions). “We’ve found that 28 percent of shoes carry fecal bacteria,” says Buettner, “and you don’t want to drag that into your home because you can get sick from it.” And separately, a rack also encourages you to keep comfortable walking or running shoes near the door, which will make you all the more likely to put them to good, active use. We love this one from Open Spaces that doubles as a decorative entryway piece.

3. Eat with family members or roommates as often as you can

Sharing a meal with others is an easy way to become more intentional about eating—which can, in turn, lead you to eat more slowly, allowing adequate time for the fullness signal to reach the brain. Not to mention, socializing is one of the core tenets of the Blue Zones regions. “And one of the best ways to build bonds with family or friends is to sit around the dinner table,” says Buettner. Doing so also creates natural punctuation between the go-go-go of the workday and the personal time of the evening, which can help you maintain work-life boundaries.

4. Grow a vegetable or herb garden

If you have any kind of outdoor space, use it to grow edible things, whether in the ground or in containers on a porch or terrace. “Gardening is something we see in every one of the Blue Zones, with people well into their nineties continuing to tend to plants and vegetables,” says Buettner. This has the triple-whammy effect of encouraging you to spend more time in fresh air, be active (weeding and watering require bending down and standing back up, after all), and eat more freshly grown foods.

And if you don’t have access to outdoor space? Set up an indoor herb garden, like this one from The Farmstand. This way, you’ll at least be more likely to consume fresh herbs, of which Buettner recommends growing rosemary and oregano, in particular. “These are often found in the Blue Zones, and they’re not only high in antioxidants but act as mild diuretics, which could help reduce blood pressure,” he says.

5. Bring elements of the outdoors into your home

To mimic the beauty of nature, Frederick suggests decorating your home with houseplants, which can naturally reduce stress. (For an easy starter option, go with a low-maintenance snake plant.) “If you can’t do that, even having pictures of natural landscapes or incorporating natural earthy and green colors into your home can help foster a positive and creativity-boosting environment,” he says, referencing the biophilic design that’s characteristic of longevity hot spot Singapore. That concept also extends to filling your home with natural light during the day by opening blinds and windows, if the weather’s nice enough to do so.

6. Design spaces with low furniture and rugs

It’s estimated that a quarter of Americans older than 65 fall each year, and it’s one of the leading causes of hospitalization, says Frederick. But no matter your age, incorporating low couches and chairs throughout your home is one simple way to steer clear of a fall that could compromise your longevity.

In Okinawa, they take it one step further and sit on the floor, says Buettner: “That means you have a 100-year-old woman getting up and down from the floor 20 or 30 times a day, which is essentially a squat. They end up having better balance, more flexibility, and great lower-body strength.” You can certainly copy that in your own home by sitting on the floor, though Buettner says low furniture works well for this purpose, too. (A cozy chair-and-a-half can do the trick.)

7. Safeguard bathrooms against slips and trips

Because they’re slippery, bathrooms rank high on the list of spots where people tend to fall at home. To prevent that, Frederick suggests laying slip-resistant mats on the floor (or installing slip-proof tiles, if you’re able to renovate), adding grab bars to the walls in the shower, and even placing a little bench in the shower. And if you’re in the market for a new place, consider choosing one with a shower instead of a tub, if you have the option, so that you don’t need to climb over the ledge to get into it, adds Frederick.

8. Calm-ify your bedroom

Creating a space that’s as conducive to sleep as possible is an easy way to get more, well, sleep—which offers a host of longevity-boosting benefits, like boosting cardiovascular health and improving cognition. In that vein, Frederick suggests installing blackout curtains on any bedroom window that gets a lot of light and setting up a white-noise machine that can fill your space with a calming and sleep-inducing sound, while also helping block out noise from outside. Regularly dusting and vacuuming your bedroom, and making your bed can also help create the kind of tranquil, sanctuary-like space that’ll help you regularly achieve high-quality sleep.

9. Make your home welcoming to guests

In the same way that eating with family members can strengthen longevity-boosting bonds, socializing more with neighbors and friends can foster the kind of relationships that may also extend your lifespan. While you might already have a dining-room or kitchen table, Frederick suggests creating other little nooks for gathering with tables and chairs throughout your space, or perhaps right outside your front door.

“There’s certainly research to suggest that having close friends supports longevity, but we also know that loose ties, like you might have with neighbors or people in your community, can boost your overall health and well-being,” says Frederick. And the more opportunities you have for engaging with those folks in and around your home, design-wise, the more likely you are to do it.

After a long winter of dormancy, spring is when your houseplants, well, spring back to life, according to plant doctor and stylist Maryah Greene. “During winter, they’re not pushing out too many leaves,” she says. “They’re just sort of sleeping.” But once spring rolls around, longer days mean more sunlight for the plants, allowing them to start growing rapidly again. And in order for them to reap the benefits of all that light and truly thrive, they may benefit from a cleaning and some maintenance, too.

Before diving in, however, it’s important to keep one guideline in mind, says Greene: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” This means that if your plants seem happy, you don’t need to make too many adjustments this spring (see: light dusting and pruning below). But, if your houseplants do show some signs of unhappiness, read on to learn how to clean and maintain them this spring in order to ensure they experience a healthy, happy warm-weather season.

Here’s how to clean and maintain your houseplants this spring to enhance their growth

1. Give them a good dusting

First up, treat your plants to the freshness of dust-free leaves. By removing the layer of dust sitting on top of the plants’ leaves, they’ll be better able to absorb sunlight, which promotes an increased growth rate, says Greene.

For smaller plants, you can dust them with a damp microfiber cloth, swiping it over the tops and bottoms of leaves; and for larger ones, Greene likes to dust with a Swiffer duster. This way, you can also pop off the disposable dusting pad and replace with a new one in between plants, which reduces the risk of passing an infection or disease from one plant to another, she says.

Nika Vaughan, the founder of Chicago-based plant and beauty shop Plant Salon, also suggests cleaning your plants with a pest-deterrent spray, like a neem oil spray, to help remove dust and debris while also repelling and knocking out pests that may be lurking under leaves.

2. Do some light pruning

Use this spring-cleaning session as an opportunity to do some light pruning (aka cutting off dead leaves), which also encourages new plant growth.

“There’s no conditioner that’s capable of [repairing split ends]. It’s the same thing for plants. Once a leaf turns brown or yellow and it’s wilted, it can’t bounce back.” —Maryah Greene, plant doctor and stylist

Greene compares these dead leaves to the split ends of hair. “There’s no conditioner that’s capable of [repairing split ends],” she says. “It’s the same thing for plants. Once a leaf turns brown or yellow and it’s wilted, it can’t bounce back.” These dead leaves are just a natural part of a plant’s life cycle. So, if you spot any of them on your plants, get to snipping; they’ll thank you later.

3. Check their placements

As you’re taking a moment to clean your plants, it’s also smart to consider where they’re located in your home and whether their placements are still providing them with an appropriate amount of light, depending on whether they thrive in brightness or prefer shadier areas.

“You may find that your home has more areas during spring and summer that will provide lots of light for your plants,” says Vaughan, which is why it’s a good time to assess and adjust accordingly. As we move into the sunnier seasons, she also suggests spacing out your plants, if they’re placed pretty close together, in order to encourage a bit more airflow between them. “The increased space can help move stagnant air and allow you to find any tucked-away pests more easily,” says Vaughan.

A word of caution: As you’re shifting things around, be careful not to move plants too far from their previous locations, especially if they seem happy and thriving, says Greene. (Otherwise, the big change could prove traumatic to them.) If you just want to make sure that they’re getting even sunlight exposure in their current spots, particularly as the amount of sunlight increases, she suggests rotating them 45-degrees once a month.

4. Adjust your watering schedule

Part of your spring houseplant maintenance should include a tweak to your watering frequency, too. During winter, there’s less of a need to water as frequently because plants receive less sunlight and therefore don’t dry out as quickly. But as spring arrives, you may need to dial up the watering because additional sunlight will cause water to evaporate more readily, leaving your plants thirsty more often.

Pro tip: The only way to really know if a plant needs water or how often you should water it is by checking the soil with a water meter (which will assess how wet it is) or, if it’s a smaller plant, by sticking a finger in the soil to determine how damp (or dry) it feels, says Greene. If the soil seems moist, you can hold off on watering, and if not, go ahead and give the plant a drink.

5. Repot if needed

In the spring, it’s also wise to consider whether any of your plants might be due for a repotting—which is something to do when it seems like a plant needs more space to grow (roots are growing out the bottom of the pot or forming a rootball, or the plant isn’t maturing any more), or it could use fresh soil (perhaps it’s become infested with pests). Because the process of repotting can be traumatic for a plant, Greene says now is the ideal time to do it (if any of the above scenarios rings true)—when the plant is otherwise exposed to the ample sunlight and optimal growing conditions of spring.

To do so, Vaughan recommends choosing a new pot that is one to two inches larger in diameter than the current pot. “Gently loosen the soil in the plant’s pot, tip the plant to the side, and tap or shimmy the plant out of its current pot,” she says. “Then, carefully loosen the plant’s roots, so that much of the old dirt falls away.” Next, set the plant to the side while adding fresh potting soil to the new pot—enough for the plant to sit just about one inch below the new pot’s rim, she adds. And lastly, place the plant in its new pot and finish adding soil to cover the roots completely.

“When you’re looking at doing perennials for your outdoor space, whether you have a garden or you’re going to do container gardening, however you plan to approach your garden, you really want to make sure that you’re thinking about the environment that you have,” says Palomares. “You want to take into consideration how much light you have in your space, whether you get a lot of sunlight or you’re in a more shady environment. That’s going to be really important to understand as you plan for the plant that you pick going into your garden.” A light meter ($16) can help with that.

Next, you’ve got to think about soil and spacing. Figuring out if you want to place your perennials directly in the ground or in pots will help you figure out how many to buy. If your plant needs a special type of soil that’s very different from what you have naturally, choosing to pot your perennials can be an easy solve.

“You also want to think about how big these perennials are going to get over time and the space that you have, and whether that’s going to work in your favor,” he says. “Because if you’re talking about low-maintenance plants, you want to make sure your planning ahead so it’s going to get the desired effect that you have.”

Lastly, you want to consider when your plants will be in bloom. If you plant nothing but daffodils, they’ll be super pretty until they start to wilt in May, leaving you with a bare garden for the rest of the year. Planning your garden with this in mind is called “staging,” explains Palomares. Keep in mind that you can always supplement your perennials with annuals (plants you have to replant every year) if you need some added color that will last throughout the warmer months.

8 Low-Maintenance Perennial Flowers That Return Year After Year

Lavender — $20.00

“One of my favorites is the lavender plant. This is a great plant, it’s a fragrant plant,” says Palomares. “It has beautiful blooms as it comes up in the season. You can really find those in nice temperate climates throughout the United States. That one does require more sun, and you really do want that well-drained soil. You want to make sure you have the right environment for that.”

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Daffodils — $9.00

“Something like a daffodil, which is really one of those first signs of spring, if you plant those bulbs in the fall, those are a great plant that you’re going to see early on in the season, just as the seasons are about to turn away from winter to spring,” says Palomares. You can buy five and get five bulbs to get this gorgeous dandelion mix for $15.

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Azaleas — $17.00

Azaleas are a fantastic low-maintenance plant available in a variety of blooming colors, whether it’s a white, pink, red. “Sometimes you’ll see some yellow blooms on there as well,” says Palomares. “Azaleas thrive in a nice, cool, moist climate, and they bloom in late spring and early summer. And they bloom for quite some time, so I think that’s a really easy-to-care-for plant that gives you that great pop of color that you might be wanting. It’s also is one that you can also plant in a container. You might have to prune back slightly just to make sure that it stays within the right size. But that one also does very well, whether you do that in the ground or a container.”

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Tulips (2-Pack) — $20.00

“Tulips—a great, easy, low-maintenance bulb that, as long as you’re planting it at the right times, you’re going to get that really first pop of color, that first bloom in your garden, and then you progress into some of your other perennials,” says Palomares. Shop eight Amber Glow Tulip bulbs for $13 and plant them in the fall.

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Peonies — $30.00

“Peonies, again, those are just those really big just gorgeous floral blooms that you’re going to get out of your perennials plants, and they come in great colors—white, red, coral, purple,” says Palomares. “These are plants that are going to go dormant in the wintertime, but when you plant them they’re going to thrive. They can grow to be five feet tall, so these are one of those you want to plan ahead for. You want to make sure you have that space to support the peonies.” Peonies thrive in areas with cold winters so be sure to take that into consideration. Shop this 5-pack of peony bulbs and plant them after the first frost.

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Lilacs — $58.00

“Lilacs are also known for their very fragrant florals. It’s a beautiful perennial,” he says. “You’re going to see that in many different shades of purple and lavender and blues.” Lilacs bloom in the spring.

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Black-Eyed Susans — $17.00

“Other favorites are the black-eyed Susans, which is this really bright, happy plant,” says Palomares. “It’s really one of those things that attract all of those pollinating insects, bees and butterflies, and all of those great things.” Shop this three-pack of 2.5 quart yellow black-eyed Susan plants.

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Hostas — $27.00

“Hostas are probably one of the easiest perennials that you could handle. They love partial shade, so that’s perfect for those areas if you’re more north-facing and don’t get a lot of sun in your backyard,” says Palomares. “They can get very large in size, provided you have the right space and care for them. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Hostas are a great perennial. Even if you do have full sun, there’s always kind of that spot in your garden that doesn’t get quite all of the sun—this is one of those great plants for that space. And they will spread. So you’re putting them into the ground, this is one that has that opportunity to give you additional plants year over year as that root system continues to grow.” Shop this pack of four hosta plants.

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The most pet-friendly plants, according to a plant doctor:

Since Oprah, there have been many other plants that have come and gone. My mom even suggested purchasing a hard-to-kill snake plant that’s I’ve named Isobel. I’ve been doing everything in my power to keep her alive—and that includes figuring out what to threats to soil to avoid so that I don’t wind up with another Oprah situation on my hands.

So before it’s too late for Isobel, I spoke with soil and environmental scientist Agnieszka Piwowarczyk, PhD, (better known as Dr. Aga) to learn more about what plants need from soil to not only survive, but thrive.

Firstly, what is potting soil made of?

Potting soil or potting compost isn’t technically soil at all. It’s a mix of components like peat moss, and some extra organic materials like stone wool, perlite, and vermiculite that are very nutrient-dense and offer good drainage, says Dr. Aga. Unlike real soil, which can contain fungus or bacteria that could harm your houseplants, potting mix is typically sterilized to protect them from microorganisms that could cause disease.

So you can sort of think of potting compost as a blank canvas. To maintain its high-nutrient quality, you need to water and fertilize it regularly, but equally as important as what you introduce to your soil is what you make sure to keep out of it.

3 common threats to soil and how to safeguard against them

1. Home pesticides

Like with humans and what we put in and on our bodies, introducing toxins into your potting mix is a common threat to soil that can disrupt its natural ecosystem. “We want to avoid the different forms of [commercial] pesticides for home use,” says Dr. Aga. “These chemicals not only contain reduced concentrations of the active ingredients, but can be equally harmful to the life of the soil overtime, thus affecting our plants too.” The purpose of any pesticide is to protect plants for irritants like insects, weeds, or even infectious organisms. Should you find yourself in need of safeguarding your houseplants from any of the above, opt for natural pesticides like neem oil instead. They are non-toxic solutions vetted by the EPA for use on organic food so they are A-okay to spritz on your plant babies.

2. Soil compaction

Dr. Aga says you also never want to let your potting soil lose its structural stability, a state known as soil compaction that doesn’t allow air and water to pass through. Similarly to how we want our skin care to really sink in through our pores, soil needs tiny holes through which to absorb water and plant food. When compaction occurs, the pore space is so tight, and that reduces the rate of both water infiltration, as well as drainage on the other side. This can impact root development (or even create root rot) and lead to smaller plant sizes. Over or under watering your plants can cause to soil compaction, as can using a pot without adequate airflow—typically, this is the case with plastic ones. To aerate your soil and loosen things up, you can use chopsticks to poke holes into it, but if that doesn’t work, consider repotting your plant with new potting mix.

3. Bleached soil 

The color of potting soil is another indicator of its health. “Never let the soil go light in color unless your plants don’t have many requirements like cacti,” warns Dr. Aga. “For  most plants that enjoy richer soils, we want the soil to be dark brown or even almost black. Losing this dark color indicates losing the soil organic matter. Adding compost and other soil amendments like feeds should help to maintain the desired organic matter status of the soil.” If that still doesn’t help, she suggests changing the soil.

It may sound a little weird or even gross, but urine can be a good fertilizer when properly prepared (more on that below—no, you can’t just pop a squat over your pots) because it contains some of the most-needed nutrients, like phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen, a byproduct of eating protein, that plants need to thrive. In fact, the United Nations finds that there’s enough phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen in the world’s wastewater (aka pee) to replace 13.4 percent of global fertilizer needs.

“You can do this at home and save on the cost that would have been used to buy fertilizers,” says professional gardener Miguel Palma, owner of the gardening advice site Jardin Tienda. Plant fertilizer can range in price from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars, depending on the amount you need, so while money isn’t the only factor to consider here, it can certainly add up.

Plus, why pay for something you can get for free? The same nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium found in your urine are the three basic plant nutrients in most commonly used fertilizers, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Urine also contains trace amounts of zinc, which is another micronutrient found in some fertilizers (not all) that the EPA says plants also need to grow. So pee is a solid substitute for store-bought fertilizers with the added bonus of already possessing these nutrients in a soluble form that’s easy for plants to absorb.

You can urine as frequently as you would any other type of plant food (or fertilizer), which will vary depending on season and type of plant. So do your homework on your specific plant or speak with a specialist at your local nursery or plant shop who can offer you recommendations based on whether your plant is indoors or outdoors, potted or not, as well as what phase of its growth cycle it’s in, all factors to keep in mind.

What to know about peeing on your plants

Palma says that the first thing to note when intending to use human urine as fertilizer is that the urine is too concentrated. “It should be diluted before application,” he says. Otherwise, it can burn the leaves or kill off microorganisms that you need in the soil.

If you’re worried about the smell, it should dissipate pretty quickly, Palma says, or you can add some vinegar to the container while it’s empty to counteract any odors.

Another factor to consider, no matter what form of fertilizer you’re using, is the temperature of the soil, which should be at least 50º F for cold-season crops outside and 60–70º F for warm-season plants, to make sure the plants can properly absorb the nutrients, according to horticulturalists at Oregon State University. This is really only a factor to consider with outdoor plants, but still something to keep in mind.

Urine also has salts in it, and salt is not great for your plants. As long as you water well between pee applications, the salts will be diluted and you won’t have a problem. If you start to see scorched leaves, wilting, or a white crust on the soil, your salt levels are too high and you need to dilute the urine more and water with more pure water between fertilizations.

The drawbacks of using urine as plant fertilizer

Using your own urine as fertilizer sounds like a free, relatively simple way to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need to stay healthy, and it is. But there are a few drawbacks to using pee on plants you should also consider. For starters, urine is high in nitrogen (according to the journal Nutrition Research and Practice, the average concentration of nitrogen in human urine is around 0.14g/L), which can cause burning and other damage to plants if it is not used in the correct amounts. Additionally, its odor can repel beneficial insects like bees and butterflies if you’re using it outdoors, and it can attract animals like rats, which can cause additional problems.

There are ways to mitigate these issues; however, and depending on where you live and whether your plants are indoors or out, it may still be worth exploring using your own urine as fertilizer.

How to use pee on plants as a fertilizer

Step 1: Collect your urine

To do this, you’ll need a cup (if you’ve every given a urine sample at the doctor’s it’s the same idea). Pee into your cup and then transfer your urine to your watering can.

Step 2: Prepare your pee

As Palma mentioned, pee is too concentrated to pour directly onto plants, so you need to dilute it first. Dilute your pee with five to 10 parts water using the same cup your collected your pee in to help . The ratio doesn’t have to be exact, you can just eyeball it, Palma says.

Step 3: Sprinkle your soil

Just like during a normal watering session, you don’t want to douse your plant’s leaves with fertilizer; instead, aim to saturate the soil. Palma says it works best when applied to actively growing plants before they grow fruit or seeds.

Is using pee on your plants safe?

Just like with any fertilizer, when using pee as plant food, you want to be mindful to handle your urine carefully. Wash your hands after handling urine and wash your fruit and vegetables before eating them—two things you should already be doing anyway. If you’re fertilizing produce in your garden, the Rich Earth Institute, which researches the safety of using urine on crops for eating and is using donated human urine to make commercial fertilizer for sustainable farming, recommends waiting at least a month after fertilizing to eat anything you’ve grown (regardless of type of plant food). But this shouldn’t be an issue in practice since, as Palma points out, the time to fertilize your soil is well before harvest season.

Training a plant is essentially guiding where a plant spreads it tendrils and leaves. It involves installing a guide object, typically a pole, to direct that spread and also to provide stability. Typically, the guide object is used to train a houseplant to grow upward. And often, that vertical mobility is what helps them reach their full potential.

According to Terry Huang, botanist and director of living collections at South Coast Botanic Garden in California, certain plant species that originate from tropical and subtropical environments (like philodendrons) require vertical growth to reach their full height and leaf-growth potential. That’s largely due to how such plants grow in their natural habitats. “They start off on the forest floor and scramble up,” he says. “Their leaves get bigger and more intricate-looking because they get more light, and they finish their life cycle at the top of the rainforest where there’s plenty of light and they’re doing their thing.”

While you likely don’t live in a rainforest, you can replicate a similar effect in your home if you want your plants to grow vertically rather than horizontally. Without putting a support in place to encourage a plant to climb up, plants will grow outward and their vines and tendrils will hang down. This is a perfectly healthy growth pattern for plants that naturally climb. For example, without training a monstera, “it’ll just kind of grow sideways and you’ll just have to re-pot it a bit more often,” Huang says.

The benefits of training your houseplants

Training a houseplant that naturally grows vertically to do just that is beneficial for its overall health. According to Danuelle Doswell and Mignon Hemsley, cofounders of the indoor plant company Grounded, replicating your plant’s natural habitat at home as much as possible helps keep it healthy and allows it to grow to its full strength and size. “The more you learn about where [the plants] come from, the more you’re able to re-create that in your space,” Doswell says.

Training plants that climb to grow upward is part of that, and the people who do it can typically expect their plants to grow stronger roots and larger, more intricate leaves.

The types of houseplants that benefit the most from training

Because many common houseplants are of a tropical origin, “at least 50 percent of your more common houseplants will need a support of some kind,” says Jim Salyards, horticulturist and director of horticulture at Filoli, an early 20th century preserved estate with more than 16 acres of gardens. This includes vining plants like monstera (Monstera deliciosa), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), philodendrons, and string of hearts (Ceropegia).  If you want to change the shape of your plant, training can be helpful, too.

He says plants with leaves that are arranged in a more rounded, rosette-like shape need this less; for example, Chinese money plants (Pilea Peperomioides) and spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) fall in this category. It’s not necessary for plants whose growths naturally hang either, like string of pearls (Cenecio rowleyanus).

When is the best time to train your plant?

Start training your plant when it begins to sprout new growths and when its existing growths are getting longer. This means that your plant is doing well, and it’s a good time to start directing it. “Your houseplant is happy and healthy and growing really well when it is sending out really long shoots,” Salyards says. You could also start as soon as you get your plant, but likely, it’s not necessary. “You need it to grow long enough to get it on the support,” he adds.

“Your houseplant is happy and healthy and growing really well when it is sending out really long shoots.” —Jim Salyards, horticulturalist and Director of Horticulture at Filoli

How to train your houseplant

Actually starting the process of training your houseplant is easy, the experts say.

First, pick which guide object you’ll use. Doswell and Hemsley suggest a moss pole, which is a sturdy stick covered in moss. These are stable and wide, so the plant has plenty to grab onto. The plant’s roots can also penetrate the moss and anchor the plant to it. Plus, the moss pole can also act as a self-watering mechanism for the plant. “You can spray the pole, and as long as you keep the moss moist, the plant can get water and nutrients from the moss pole as well,” Doswell says. Misting the moss pole also encourages the plant’s roots to latch onto it, which can help it grow vertically. If a moss pole doesn’t fit the look you’re going for, Hemsley also recommends a bamboo stick, which is skinnier, but also very sturdy.

Next, install the pole in the plant’s pot so it points straight up. Once the pole is in, secure the tendrils and shoots you’d like to direct against the pole using plant ties (some types are made of Velcro, and others are coated wires). Be careful not to affix it too tightly and crush the plant’s offshoots, but be sure that the tie is secure.

Regarding pole size, keep in mind that you don’t have to start with a towering pole, Doswell and Hemsley say. Rather, buy one that fits the plant’s existing shoots, with some extra room for it to grab as it grows. Then, be ready to add length as your plant needs it.

Once the training guides are in, don’t forget to perform the regular maintenance required to keep your plant healthy and at its best, like occasional pruning and repotting your plant if it outgrows its container. (Doswell and Hemlsey say you likely will need to repot your plant when you start training it or just after because of how strong it’ll become). Check your plant every month or so to make sure it’s growing in the direction you want it to and doing well. Finally, enjoy its guided growth, you responsible plant parent, you.

The physical differences between pothos and Philodendron

Many people often mistake pothos for Philodendrons, particularly the Heartleaf Philodendron, and vice-versa, according to plant expert at The Sill Paris Lalicata, though there are tells—like their foliage, for one—that make them distinguishable from one another.

As their name implies, “Heartleaf Philodendrons have more heart-shaped leaves compared to pothos,” says Lalicata, whereas the leaves of a pothos plant resemble “a folded pizza slice.” Caroline Copeland, an online design expert at Yardzen also mentions that Philodendrons feature a prominent arch at the point where the leaf attaches to the stem (aka the petiole), as well as a pointed tip, further lending to its heart-shaped appearance. What pothos leaves have that Philodendron leaves do not is an indented midrib, which is the line that runs down the center of a leaf blade.

The plants’ foliage don’t just look different, they also feel different: “Philodendrons have thinner leaves that are smoother in texture, while pothos have thicker, waxier leaves,” says Lalicata.

You can also distinguish between pothos and Philodendrons when the plants have new growth. “Philodendrons have these cataphylls, also called sheaths,” says Lalicata. “Whenever a new growth comes up, there’s always this little protective sheath that covers the leaf until it unfurls and then starts to decay once it doesn’t have a purpose anymore, which is something that pothos don’t have at all.” She adds that whenever Philodendrons put out new growth, it is reddish in color before turning green, while pothos’ new growth starts out pale green in color and deepens over time.

Lastly, while Pothos and Philodendrons both have aerial roots that supply moisture to the plants while allowing them to scale adjoining objects (like stakes or walls), they look different. According to Lalicata, Philodendrons have thin aerial roots that are grouped together. Conversely, pothos have thick, stubby aerial roots that grow longer if they are trained to climb. In other words: “When you look at a the aerial roots on a pothos, you will see individual little nubs or stubs, whereas when you see the aerial roots on a Philodendron, there are usually two or four clustered together and [the roots] are really thin compared to the Pothos,” she says.

Pothos vs. Philodendron: care and maintenance

For all their physical differences, pothos and philodendrons require similar care. In fact, Lalicata says there’s little to no difference in caring for either of the plants. “Both are considered low-maintenance plants, which means they’re versatile, and they can tolerate lower light conditions,” she says. However, Lalicata and Copeland mention that they will typically prefer brighter light conditions. Additionally, the two plants can withstand normal room humidity for as long as the air isn’t too dry. Usually, their watering requirements are similar, too.

Copeland typically recommends watering them when the top layer of the soil feels dry and dusty. Lalicata likewise recommends letting the soil dry out in the pot between waterings. If in doubt about watering, Lalicata says you can check the moisture of the soil using your finger, a soil moisture meter, or a soil sleuth. “Some people also use the chopstick method,” she says. “Put a chopstick in there and if it’s clean when you pull it out, that means the soil is dry and you can water your plant.” Both, however, are “super resilient plants,” Copeland says. “If you do end up forgetting to water them, there’s a strong chance they will recover.”

All that is to say, whether you’re caring for a pothos or a Philodendron, “they would be in the same category together as far as care and maintenance go,” says Lalicata.

Propagating pothos and Philodendrons

Pothos and Philodendrons don’t have many differences when it comes to propagating them either. Both plants can be propagated by cutting. For the uninitiated, “cutting is the method of taking a piece of a baby plant from the mother plant and reproducing it, plant doctor and consultant Maryah Greene previously told Well+Good. Leafy plants, like pothos and Philodendrons, can be propagated in water, says Lalicata—and the process is simple. Using sanitized pruners, clip a cutting from the node of your plant and place it in a vessel, like a Mason jar or a propagation vase, filled with water. After two to three weeks, or when the roots are about an inch long, you can transfer the cutting in a pot of soil.

Alternatively, Lalicata says that you can leave pothos or Philodendron cuttings in the water indefinitely. “I have several vases of both Philodendron and pothos that I’ve had for many years in water,” she says. “It’s an alternative way to decorate your space with the [plants] and not in soil.”

Below, plant experts share what you’ll need for your new plant, plus helpful dos and don’ts to ensure your leafy beauty thrives.

Shopping checklist for bringing home a new plant

1. Pot

When you buy a plant, it will probably come in a grower’s pot, or nursery pot. They aren’t, however, the most aesthetically pleasing—and if it’s important to you that it matches with your decor, you can place it in a more stylish-looking pot. Caroline Copeland, an online design expert at Yardzen, recommends choosing one that’s one to two inches larger in diameter than the size of the nursery pot, which can also offer sufficient room for the plant to grow.

Pots are also available in a variety of materials, from terra cotta to ceramic and plastic—and while each have their pros and cons, Paris Lalicata, a plant expert at The Sill, says it’s ultimately a matter of personal preference. Regardless of material, Copeland recommends a pot with drainage holes to ensure your plant receives the water it needs without becoming waterlogged.

In addition, drainage holes also help prevent overwatering, Kaylyn Hewitt, a plant expert and ’s lead floral designer, previously told Well+Good.

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Rivet, Geometric Ceramic Planter Pot, 7.6-Inch — $31.00

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Kubvici, Plant Pots, 8-Inch (Set Of 2) — $18.00

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2. Potting mix

“Potting mix can help provide nutrients to the plant,” says Copeland, and in addition to offering plants the sustenance it needs, it allows for aeration and helps drain excess water. Lalicata says you’ll always want a fresh bag of the stuff when bringing home a new plant. “Potting mix degrades and gets old over time,” she says. “It becomes hydrophobic [and] it becomes degraded in nutrients so that’s why plants can’t live in the same soil indefinitely.”

As you shop, you’ll likely come across a wide array of options for potting mix. Lalicata says that most standard indoor potting mixes can work for a wide array of indoor plants. However, if, for instance, you’re growing succulents and cacti, they should be planted in a potting mix that’s specially designed for them. “Since they originate from an environment that’s drier, they have a low nutrient environment where they naturally come from, so having a succulent specific potting mix helps because it has more inorganic ingredients that allow for more aeration and drainage,” she says. “It also doesn’t have as many nutrients because of the lack of organic material.”

If you’re somebody who is a rare plant collector or has a plant that isn’t as easy to care for, she adds that it’s always best to do research on what kind of soil would be best for them.

Miracle-Gro, Indoor Potting Mix, 6 Qt. — $6.00

3. Watering can

You can always use a drinking glass or the kitchen faucet to water thirsty plants, but a watering can allows you to control how much water you’re pouring and direct it where you want it to flow. Watering comes in a range of sizes and styles, with some so pretty they can double as decor. Selecting an option with these factors in mind will depend on how many plants you have to water—or alternatively, the amount of times you’re willing to refill the can—as well as your own aesthetic preferences.

In any case, Lalicata says to opt for one that’s narrow-spouted. A narrow-spouted watering can will not only allow you to reach the soil underneath the leaves of your plant, which is especially important if it has thick foliage, but will also make less mess compared to, say, a water glass or a measuring cup.

HB Design, Indoor Watering Can, 35 Fl. Oz. — $25.00

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4. Water moisture meter

Since different plants each have unique watering requirements, Lalicata recommends a water moisture meter, or, alternatively, a soil sleuth, to help you gauge the moisture level of the soil. She says that tracking the soil moisture level is the best way to know when to water your plant rather than sticking to a strict watering schedule. “There are so many different things that fluctuate in an environment that impact how fast a plant drinks up water,” she says—and it can also make plant parenting much easier.

You can also use your finger. Consider a plant watering hack that STYLUSH plant expert Reagan Kastner shared on a TikTok video: Just place your finger an inch into the soil of the pot of your plant; if you pull out and there’s dirt on your finger, hold off watering, if there’s only a little dirt, you can water.

Dr.meter, Soil Moisture Meter — $9.00

5. Neem oil

Like it or not, houseplant pests come with the territory of caring for plants—and worse still, you never know when they are going to pay a visit. That’s why Lalicata always recommends having a bottle of insecticidal soap or neem oil within reach. These pest repellants are typically made of natural ingredients that are free of chemicals so they are safe to spray indoors.

Verdana, Organic Cold Pressed Neem Oil, 8 Fl. Oz — $12.00

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6. Pruning shears

Lalicata also says to consider pruning shears, which will come in handy when your plant drops leaves or stems due to natural leaf turnover or stress. While a pair of scissors can help tidy up a plant, she says to avoid using them as an alternative. “Pruners make a more precise and cleaner cut compared to scissors,” she says. “Usually, if you use scissors and it’s not sharp, it can damage the stem tissue.”

The Sill, Micro-Tip Pruning Snips — $14.00

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7. Fertilizer

If you want to give your plant a little pick-me-up, Lalicata says that you can consider purchasing a fertilizer to use in the spring or summer months. “Fertilizer isn’t food—it’s really just a vitamin—so fertilizing your plants in the spring and summer months can help plants grow a little bit more vigorously,” she says.

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8. Hygrometer

A hydrometer can help you monitor the humidity and temperature levels in your home—and Lalicata says it’s useful for any plant parent to have. This is especially important for those who own plants that require a particular humidity range to thrive.

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Dos and don’ts of bringing home a new plant

Do research on your new plant

Bringing home a new plant typically requires a little more thought than choosing one based on looks. It’s important to do your research on the plant species you’re interested in to ensure your home has the right environmental conditions for it to thrive. Lalicata says that the first and most crucial thing you want to do is assess the amount of light that your home receives. This will help you determine which types of plants can do well in your space as some can tolerate low-light conditions while others benefit from environments that receive direct sunlight.

In addition, you also want to research on whether a plant is low maintenance or requires more care—and from there, decide if you can give it the time and attention it needs. For example, “if you’re somebody who is always traveling or you’re always out, consider getting a more low-maintenance plant that is drought-tolerant or can thrive in various light conditions,” says Lalicata. “It’s really about being honest with yourself about the time and attention that you can give each individual plant.”

Don’t repot your plant right away

If you’re thinking of repotting your plant the moment you arrive home, think again. According to both Copeland and Lalicata, you’ll want to refrain from repotting your new plant right away—it’s important to let them acclimate to its new environment. “Usually, we say to acclimate your plants for up to two weeks,” says Lalicata. “Some lower-maintenance or hardier plants, like ZZ or snake plants, require just a week because they aren’t as fussy.”

Do quarantine your plant for a week

“If you already have other plants, it might be a good idea to quarantine the new plant for a week,” says Copeland. The reason being is that it may carry pests that may not be immediately visible. “Even if you investigate the plant before bringing it home, it’s always good to pretreat it first and also keep it quarantined for at least a week away from the rest of your plants,” says Lalicata. To rid a new plant of any pests, Lalicata gives it a quick rinse in her sink or tub, and once it dries, pretreats it with an insecticidal soap or neem oil. “If I find that after a week, no pests are popping up, then I will go ahead and integrate it into the rest of my collection,” she says.

Don’t water your plant unless it needs it

“Resist the temptation to water your new plant and wait until it actually needs it,” says Copeland—and the best way to check if your plant needs hydration is to check the moisture of the soil. “If you buy a new plant and the soil is moist, you do want to refrain from watering it,” says Lalicata, “whereas if you check the soil and it’s bone-dry, then go ahead and give the plant some water.”

The differences between buying plants from local nurseries vs. big-box stores

The two biggest differences between local nurseries and big-box stores are price and the quality of plant care. “Most of the time, plants from local nurseries will receive better care and attention,” says Caroline Copeland, online design expert at Yardzen. At a local nursery, plants will most likely be watered according to their individual needs as opposed to being watered on the same schedule, which often takes place in big-box retailers to streamline the care process of tending to a large selection of plants. “And it’s more likely that you will pick up a diseased or pest-infected plant from a big-box store,” she says.

One other difference? Plant variety. Big-box retailers typically purchase their plants in bulk, and while you’re likely to find a wide range of plants, they are often limited to the most popular varieties. If you’re on the market for a unique plant species, she recommends paying a visit to your local nursery. Often, the staff at local nurseries will be knowledgeable too, which is ideal for people who want detailed information on which plant to purchase and how to best care for them. Plus, “they’ll be a great ongoing resource during your gardening journey,” says Copeland.

Where should you buy plants—local nurseries or big-box stores?

Copeland recommends buying plants from a local nursery—particularly if you are a first-time gardener. It’ll cost you more than buying from a big-box store, though Copeland says it’s well worth the investment. “The plants are going to be more expensive than those from a big-box store, but having a healthier plant and instructions on how to keep it that way will be worth the extra cost.” As a bonus? When you buy plants from local nurseries, she says, you’re supporting local businesses, too.

Ultimately, though, it’s a matter of preference when deciding to buy plants from local nurseries or big-box stores. If you’re looking to purchase plants from big-box retailers due to budget constraints or simply because of convenience and accessibility, Copeland says it’s important to know how to pick a healthy plant.

How to pick a healthy plant from a local nursery or big-box store

Whether you’re buying from a local nursery or a big-box store, it’s important to select a healthy plant. It stands a better chance of thriving in your home than ones riddled with disease or pests. Maryah Greene, plant expert and founder of Greene Piece, previously told Well+Good, that there are a few tells—vibrant colors, for one thing—that indicate a plant is healthy.

Look for plants showing signs of new growth, says Greene. “New growth is the sign of a healthy plant, regardless of any shedding or discoloration.” she says. Plants with limp or discolored foliage, can also be indicative of pesky houseplant pests, plant coach Nick Cutsumpas (aka “Farmer Nick”), previously told Well+Good. That said, a pest infestation can be tricky to diagnose before the infestation becomes unwieldy or difficult to control. With this in mind, when you bring home a new plant—be it from a quality nursery or a big-box store—you might want to quarantine your plant for a day or two, isolating it from other plants until it has been proven to be pest free.

Alternatives to buying plants from local nurseries or big-box stores

Local nurseries and big-box stores aren’t the only places to get new plants. There are alternatives, some of which will cost you nothing at all:

1. Buy plants online

Those who don’t have easy access to a local nursery or big-box retailer, or would simply prefer to have greenery delivered straight to their doorstep, can buy plants online. There are a number of websites to choose from, and many offer more than just plants, serving as one-stop shops where customers can find gardening tools, pots, planters, and more. The one caveat to online shopping for plants? You won’t know what state it’s in until it arrives at your door. To avoid the risk of buying an unhealthy plant, purchase from a reputable website, and better yet, somewhere that has a return policy.

2. Join a plant swap

For the uninitiated, “a plant swap is typically a community-based event for people who are looking to find new plants or offload some of their existing plants in exchange for new ones,” Pat May, founder of Prōpa, previously told Well+Good. Not just limited to in-person events, there are websites and apps where you can coordinate individual plant swaps. Whether you’re joining or hosting a plant swap party, May says there is one thing to keep in mind, which is to ensure only healthy and pest-free plants make an appearance at the party.

3. Propagate new plants from your existing collection

Propagating your plants is the easiest—and cheapest—way to expand your collection. There are several methods to propagate plants, but the most common is cutting, which is “the method of taking a piece of a baby plant from a mother plant, and reproducing it,” said Greene. You can propagate the cutting of leafy plants, like pothos and monstera, in a water propagation vase, or in soil if you want to reproduce your succulents. In any case, you want to use a pair of shears that are clean and razor-sharp.

What is a plant swap?

“A plant swap is typically a community-based event for people who are looking to find new plants or offload some of their existing plants in exchange for new ones,” says Pat May, founder of Prōpa, an online social platform that lets users upload pictures of their plants and exchange plants for new ones. These events typically allow people to expand their plant collection, or get rid of plants they don’t want without having to throw them away. Besides the obvious benefit of taking home a plant by way of trade, it’s also an opportunity to meet people in your local plant community. “Plant swaps are fun,” says May. “I usually say that people come for the plants and stay for the people.”

Where can I join a plant swap near me?

If you want to join a community plant swap, a quick Google search can lead to any number of events in your area. You can also search Facebook or Instagram, where, according to May, many plant swap events are coordinated. In addition, local online forums can provide information on upcoming events. And if there are no upcoming events in your area, there are websites that coordinate individual plant swaps. PlantSwap.org is a website where people can list plants they want to donate, swap, or adopt, and Prōpa and Blossm are other options that you can download onto any iOS or Android device.

Practicing proper etiquette at plant swaps

If you’re joining a plant swap for the first time, there’s a certain etiquette involved when it comes to joining the party—and this can vary from one event to the next. Some plant swaps also have rules and typically it’s best to adhere to those coming into an event, but if it’s not readily stated, May says to ask the organizer. Regardless of the rules, there are a few things that you’ll want to keep in mind.

“Whether or not it’s required, label your plants,” says May. “Labeling your plants is really helpful because you want people to know exactly what plant they’re receiving, and though you might tell them what is, they might not remember later on.” If a plant swap is being organized on Facebook or another social media platform, you might also want to tell people which plants you’re bringing in advance, he says. “It makes for a better event because if other people know that good plants are going to be there, then they’re going to bring their good plants.”

However, if you only have a few plants to trade, it shouldn’t discourage you from attending an event. “A lot of plant swaps will have TAPLAP shelves, take a plant, leave a plant, where you can get new plants,” says May. He also suggests talking to people in the event, many of whom would be willing to give you propagated plant cuttings or whole plants to help you diversify your collection.

The most important consideration, says May, is to bring healthy, pest-free plants. In addition don’t give plants that are “smelly,” which May says would be indicative of fungus or mold.

How to throw a plant swap: the three Ls

Those who want the social aspect that typically comes with a community plant swap but don’t have access to one in their area might want to throw one of their own. There is no one way to throw a plant swap—it can be as orchestrated as a neighborhood-wide event or as casual as a gathering with friends and family. May only asks that you keep three Ls in mind: “labels, legs, and libations.”

1. Labels

According to May, it is best practice for participants to label the plants they bring to a plant swap—and ideally, it will also involve knowledgeable individuals to verify whether the labels are accurate. Alternatively, you can use an app that identifies the species of a plant. This will help ensure that everyone involved knows what they’re giving and receiving.

2. Legs

When May talks about legs, he is referring to houseplant pests, which you don’t want to make an appearance. Pets travel quickly from one plant to another and can potentially cause an infestation. With this in mind, May recommends you request all plant swap attendees to bring pest-free plants to the event.

3. Libations

According to May, it isn’t a plant swap party without libations, and he recommends offering food and drinks for attendees. “You want people to linger around and talk to other people,” he says, also mentioning that you might want to reach out to restaurants or bars to host an event. “A lot of these places are more than happy to host these events [and] it’s also a very easy, compliant way of hosting a party.”

According to Caroline Copeland, a design expert at online landscape design platform Yardzen, there are a few considerations to keep in mind when shopping for functionally stylish propagation vases, such as size, shape, and material.

How to choose a propagation vase

Ideally, says Copeland, you’ll want a vase that can accommodate the plant cuttings you are propagating, says Copeland—and one with a large enough opening when time to move the cutting into a pot. “You want to ensure that the opening of the vase is large enough to remove the plant without damaging the roots that you worked so hard to grow,” she says. That said, you’ll want to avoid purchasing a propagation vase with a neck that’s too wide. When propagating plant cuttings, Copeland says that you want to avoid fully submerging the leaves in water—a vessel with a thin neck can prevent this from happening while helping keep the plant upright.

As you shop, you might also want to think about purchasing a vase made from clear glass, which shouldn’t be hard to find as many propagation vases are made of the material, and for good reason. According to Copeland, a clear glass vessel allows you to keep an eye on how the roots of your propagated plant are growing. If you want to prevent the risk of your vase from tipping over, select one with a sturdy base too. Those limited on space can also consider purchasing an option that hangs from the wall or ceiling—fortunately, there are plenty of options for those as well.

With all this in mind, here are 10 stylish propagation vases for every budget and preference.

10 stylish propagation vases

Bloomscape, Kinto Propagation Starter Set — $60.00

Originally $70, now $60

The KINTO propagation kit from Bloomscape comes with two glass vases in different sizes—small and large— that are handcrafted in Japan. They have a beautifully minimalist design that would blend with most decor, and in addition to propagating plants, you can also use them to grow bulbs, herbs, and avocado seeds. As a bonus, the set includes TakeRoot Rooting Hormone, which contains Indole-3-Butyric Acid to help encourage root growth in plant cuttings.

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DZHJKIO, Glass Planters (Set Of 6) — $28.00

These glass orbs are designed for showcasing air plants, but many Amazon shoppers also use them to propagate their plants. They come as a set of six, and they can stand alone or be mounted to the wall, placed throughout your home or arranged together to create an interesting visual display. Several reviewers have also mentioned that, if placed on the wall, they are easy to install and remove. Just keep in mind that you may have to use hooks to mount the vessels.

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Uncommon Goods, Plant Propagation Bookend — $60.00

Uncommon Goods’ plant propagation station doubles as a bookend to holding up books—and keeping them in place. It’s handmade of wood and has a unique staircase design with room for three test tubes that you can use for your favorite plant cuttings. The vials are also a cinch to remove when you want to change the water or clean it. The propagation station is available in a maple option (pictured above) or a walnut option for a few more dollars. One tradeoff? The bookends are sold individually.

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Glasseam, Glass Propagation Station With Metal Frame (Set Of 2) — $18.00

These propagation vases come in an elegant gold finish that will add glitz to a console or coffee table—all for under $20. The vases come as a pair and accompanying glass test tubes for propagating plant cuttings or floral bouquets. As a bonus, multiple amazon shoppers who’ve purchased the propagation vase set have also mentioned that you can remove the glass test tubes for easy cleaning. If you aren’t keen on gold, you also shop the pair in a sleek black finish.

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Lively Root, Glass Orb Vase — $18.00

Lively Root’s glass orb vases come in four colors, from pink and yellow to sky and azure blue. The orbs are suspended on a glass stand, making them look as though they’re floating in midair. They would look lovely on a desk, for instance, or on a bookcase. Keep in mind that these vases are on the petite side—and if you foresee yourself propagating a lot of cuttings, you might want to opt for another option or consider purchasing several of Lively Root’s orb-shaped vases.

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Ivolador, Wall-Hanging Planter Terrarium — $19.00

This macrame plant hanger blends modern and rustic elements, displaying your newly propagated plants in style. It features a sturdy loop for hanging and two wooden tiers that can accommodate up to 10 test tubes. In addition, it comes with 11 glass test tubes (in the event one of them breaks), plus a cleaning brush. If macrame isn’t your thing, it’s also available in three other styles: three-tier wood planters in beige or brown finishes and a wood-framed option that can hold up to five glass test tubes.

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The Sill, Theory Beyond Design Maple Sunrise Propagation Vase — $46.00

This propagation vase from The Sill provides a welcome burst of green to a room’s walls. It’s constructed from wood and a single test tube, which can accommodate only one or a couple of plant cuttings at a time. Its rounded shape adds visual interest without being a distraction, and the vial is easy to remove come time to change the water or repot your plant. If you plan on propagating more than a few plants, there’s another version from The Sill that can accommodate up to three test tubes.

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Mkono, Plant Terrarium With Wooden Stand — $21.00

Versatile and affordable, this propagation station can be wall mounted or stand alone. It comes with a wooden stand and five glass globes for your plant cuttings. The vessels are attached to the stand, but they can all be tipped over when you want to refill them with fresh water. Choose from three finishes: brown (pictured above), black, or beige. If you are tight on space, it’s also available in a “small” version, which comes with three glass containers instead of five.

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Aoderun, Hanging Glass Planter — $10.00

This hanging planter comes in a sleek metal frame that effortlessly secures to the ceiling or wall (with the inclusion of a rope, hanging hooks, and adhesive hooks). They’re trendy enough to proudly display your plant cuttings, but not overly so; these planters are timeless enough to keep for years to come. It’s available in three sizes, including small, medium, and large, or as a three-piece set with different sizes, which will only set you back a few more dollars.

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Greendigs, Propagation Vase — $25.00

Greendigs’ propagation vase is accented with a brass neck, which adds the perfect touch of interest to its otherwise simple and straightforward silhouette. The vase is made from glass, and it comes in three sizes (small, medium, and large) to suit various preferences. While available in multiple options, each vase is designed to hold “a trimming or two,” according to the manufacturer—something to keep in mind as you shop. Regardless of which size you choose, the vase is sold at the same price of $25.

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I can’t even count how many houseplants I’ve killed (the last one I remember was named Mariah #5, and yes there were four “Mariahs” before that). Because of my complete lack of botanical skill, the thought of tending to my own vegetable garden like the aunts in Practical Magic would remain a fantasy. That is, until I discovered Ingarden ($160), an indoor hydroponic smart garden that grows organic, superfood microgreens in about a week. The system uses an energy-efficient light system and watering technology that allows you to grow microgreens without much management at all. (It also comes in a variety of pretty colors like mint, pink, black, and beige.) Clearly, that speaks to me.

Ingarden, Indoor Growing Kit + 3 Started Seed Pod Trays — $160.00

Available in mint, beige, pink, and black. Additional seed pads and accessories sold separately.

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Uh, what exactly are microgreens?

In the past couple of years, I’ve become a real microgreens nerd. Admittedly, I didn’t really have a good understanding of what they were at first, even though I did buy microgreens from Trader Joe’s from time to time. They’re often confused with sprouts (which are young greens grown from sprouted seeds) and while they’re both packed with nutrients, they’re actually different. “It’s easy to imagine microgreens as baby vegetable greens,” explains Ingarden co-founder and co-CEO, Mariana Ferreira. “They are usually harvested, meaning ready to eat, one to three weeks from when seeds are planted.”

According to Ferreira, microgreens contain up to 20 times more nutrient density than regular vegetables, so they can double as a nutritional supplement while also adding texture and flavor to foods. “Because they are recently sprouted greens, they contain more of the beneficial nutrients our bodies crave in ratio with other components,” she says. “For example, the amount of starch in a broccoli increases over time as it matures at a much faster rate than the amount of vitamin A, thus a micro broccoli has more density of these essential nutrients than the mature vegetable.”

I had learned about the nutritional power of microgreens from one of my favorite wellness podcasts, and began buying them more often, tossing them in salads or eating them with baby potatoes (aka my “potato salad”.) Before I knew it, though, I was buying my own hydroponic garden to grow my own.

Growing ‘greens with the Ingarden

I was a little nervous about using Ingarden (obviously because of what happened to the five Mariahs), but Ferreira made it sound so easy: “From a mom wanting to teach their 8-year-old how to grow something easily, to that millennial who’s apartment gets no direct light, Ingarden’s mess-free hydroponic system can help you grow greens anywhere, any time of year at some of the fastest rates,” she says. She assured me in as fast as 5-7 days, I’d have lil’ greens ready to eat. Also assuring—I didn’t have to pick just one veggie type. You can grow three different kinds of foods at the same time, such as arugula, kale, broccoli, bok choy, and more.

How to use the Ingarden

My kitchen is small and doesn’t have a lot of counter space, so I decided to let Ingarden do its thing in my living room, but away from any windows so it doesn’t get sunlight, which could mess up the growing process. After quickly setting up the frame and ceramic bowl together, I placed three seed pads (which were mustard, radish, and red cabbage greens) on the frame, filled the bowl with water, and set the light timer to be on for 12 hours and off for 12 more.

And that’s it! Because the bowl acts as a water bank, it’ll water the greens automatically via the wicks that transfer the water inside the bowl to the pads. The only mistake I made was that I set it up in the afternoon, so the lights were on when I was going to bed, which was slightly annoying because I could see them from bed and I like to sleep in pitch darkness like a vampire. (Ingarden recommends that you synchronize the Ingarden with your sleep cycle and start the timer in the morning when you wake up.) Over the next week, I began watching my microgreens grow. Glorious! After a week or so, I was able to harvest and enjoy my delicious greens.

Cooking with microgreens

If you’re wondering how to incorporate microgreens into your meals, good news: it’s easy as ever. “From simply adding them in a smoothie or garnishing a soup to making them the main flavor pop of a fancy avocado toast or steak, you choose to eat them in so many ways,” says Ferreira. Ingarden also released its first recipe ebook ($9) containing popular recipes you can try at home.

For my first harvest, I decided to make a bougie bagel using the mustard greens. Since then, I’ve made egg dishes, elaborate salads, and tossed microgreens over pasta. There’s something about the greens that instantly make a homemade meal look like a culinary masterpiece. Not only did it feel amazing to eat something fresh and nutritious that I grew in my own “garden,” but it also inspired me to get creative with my meals (and not order from Postmates, ahem). And I didn’t even need a green thumb after all.

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As someone without much of a green thumb, I never paid much mind to my grandparents’ use of terracotta beyond it becoming a characteristic of my core memories. Now that I live in a home with a front porch worthy of a giant pot of flowers, though, I’m more invested. And even now, Gram swears that terracotta is the way to go. As much as I trust her, given she has over 65 years of gardening experience under her belt, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to chat with a gardening expert about the benefits of planting in the pretty-yet-simple pots, and how to keep terracotta from cracking (since that’s one of the biggest complaints surrounding the pots).

The Benefits of Planting in Terracotta Pots

According to PlantIn gardening expert Melvin Cubian, terracotta pots are known for their absorption. “Because terracotta pots are porous, theoretically, they can reduce the risk of overwatering and fungal diseases by absorbing extra water in the soil,” he explains. That said, he admits that in more recent years, it’s been proven scientifically that the benefit is not that significant compared to plastic pots, so long as they have drainage holes.

Beyond potential absorption perks, Cubian says that terracotta is notably heavier than a plastic pot, which makes it more steadfast for outdoor use where winds and heavy rain could potentially topple over a lightweight pot.

Additionally, while rather simple in design, they have a certain charm. “One of the appeals of terracotta pots is actually how they take on character as they age, which many people gravitate towards for a vintage feel for their homes and gardens,” says Rebecca Sears, chief gardening “guru” at Ferry-Morse. “Plus, using terracotta pots instead of planting your seeds directly in the ground also allows you more opportunity to get creative with landscaping and place your plants in different areas of your garden.”

Pennington, 12 in. Terra Cotta Clay Pot — $15.00

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How To Care for Terracotta Pots

Why are terracotta pots prone to cracking?

Terracotta pots might be more durable for outdoor use but thanks to their porous nature, they can crack over time. The reason?

“When the pot’s micropores are filled with water and exposed to cold temperatures, the water can expand and cause pressure in the cavities,” says Cubian. “The repetitive freezing and thawing process weakens its overall structure, causing it to crack over time.”

Pottery Barn, Provence Scalloped Edge Planter-Terra Cotta — $25.00

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How do I prevent terracotta pots from cracking?

If you love using terracotta for your planters, the trick to preventing them from cracking is to keep them in a climate-controlled area. Of course, if you use them outdoors, this can be tricky, as you likely won’t want to lug in a heavy pot every time it’s anything less than sunny. With that in mind, Cubian says to simply bring your terracotta in when freezing temperatures are on the radar. After all, if they get wet, that’s not a problem. It’s when they freeze and then thaw out that the pores of the terracotta become weakened.

While large cracks are rather irreparable, Sears says that if you find a few small cracks in your terracotta pot, you can even just seal them using epoxy (like Milliput’s 2-Part Self Hardening Putty) to avoid further breakage.”

Milliput 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Terracotta — $11.00

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D'vine Dev, Terracotta Pots — $29.00

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How do I keep terracotta pots clean and free of pests?

It’s important to think about your terracotta pots beyond their potential to break. “It’s important to clean the pots at the end of every growing season to avoid pests and diseases that will attack plants,” Sears says. “Some gardeners even like to go the extra mile by soaking it in one part bleach and nine parts water, to ensure it is sterilized.”

While there are numerous different low-light plants to choose from for your green-home needs, the following selections are some of the best—and most unique!—options to brighten up your space. Whether you opt for a flowing silver pothos or a wavy rattlesnake plant or one of the other options outlined below, you can’t go wrong with one of the low-light plants to keep you company all season long.

8 low-light plants perfect for fall and winter

Brighter Blooms monstera plant — $50.00

While monsteras grow quicker in bright indirect light environments, they still do really well in low-light situations.

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The Sill ZZ plant with planter — $88.00

ZZ plants love medium to low indirect light. And get this: You only need to water them every three to four weeks. Talk about low-maintenance.

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Bloomscape dracaena marginata open weave with planter — $199.00

This large plant is super eye-catching with its woven stems and spiky leaves. Extra bonus: It removes chemicals from the air.

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Costa Farms snake plant — $22.00

The snake plant is one of the easiest plants to take care of. Aside from being completely happy in low-light situations, it also doesn’t need much water.

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The Sill baby rubber plant with planter — $80.00

The Peperomia obtusifolia—aka the “baby rubber plant”—is pet-friendly, tolerates low indirect light, and sets itself apart from other houseplants with its unique thick green spoon-shaped leaves.

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Silver pothos with planter — $67.00

This isn’t a regular pothos. It’s a cool pothos. It’s fuller, has heart-shaped leaves with silvery-gray markings, and does great in low-light areas.

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Costa Farms mass cane with pot — $70.00

This easy-to-grow mass cane plant, also often known as a corn plant, has pretty green leaves with a golden center, thrives in low-light areas, and comes in a cute sea grass basket.

The Sill calathea rattlesnake plant with planter — $86.00

This unique plant has long, wavy leaves that look look like snake markings. Also cool? Every leaf has a pretty purple underside.

 

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Why you shouldn’t bother with majesty palms

Majesty palms have earned themselves a difficult reputation on TikTok and beyond. While they’re undoubtedly gorgeous, they tend to do this thing where they perish right when you’re getting attached, so we asked Bryana Sortino, co-founder and COO of Horti—a plant subscription service—why majesty palms are such heartbreakers.

“Most indoor palm plants typically require a lot of sunlight and humidity, but are often touted and sold as medium to low light by many plant stores,” says Sortino. “To thrive indoors, majesty palms need six to eight hours of bright light per day and the soil should never dry out completely.” And thus, if you’re living in a little apartment with only a handful of windows and/or your locale only gets a few hours of bright sunlight per day, your majesty palm is bound to die in protest.

According to Sortino, this learning lesson is part and parcel of one of the golden rules of plant care: “One of the most important rules in caring for indoor plants is to try and understand, and then replicate, their natural habitats,” she explains. “In this case, a beautiful Madagascar oceanside.”

The best indoor palm plants to buy

Luckily, there are plenty of indoor palm plants to buy that won’t cause emotional turmoil. “Cat palm, Areca palm, Parlor palm, and Bamboo palm are all great choices,” says Sortino. “They are all palms and require similar care to majesty, but can truly handle indirect bright light—just avoid direct sun.”

The Best Palm Houseplants

Ponytail palm — $24.00

“Ponytail palm—not a palm, but in fact a succulent—needs full sun and is drought-tolerant,” says Sortino. “These creatures are super low maintenance and as long as they’re getting enough sun.” The description of this plant notes that this palm loves a very, very bright room—so make sure your home is up to the task before you order.

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Dracaena Marginata Open Weave — $199.00

This low-light beauty is four to five feet tall and notorious for its air-filtering qualities. Since it’s a little heavy, Bloomscape sells a little saucer on wheels so you can roll it around your home effortlessly until you find that right spot.

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Neanthe Bella Palm — $14.00

Put this plant in indirect sunlight, and it will grow and grow and grow. Make sure to let the top two inches of soil fully dry out before watering this baby.

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Areca palm — $42.00

This Feng Shui-friendly plant is said to foster unity in a household. It prefers indirect sunlight (but not too much) and waterings when the soil has dried out completely.

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Cat Palm — $45.00

Native to southeastern Mexico, the cat palm is a laid-back plant that will thrive in a bright room. Like the Dracaena Marginata, the cat palm is great for boosting air quality.

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But, you may be wondering, why is this? “There are so many reasons you might find yourself learning how to prune a plant, including general grooming,” says Erin Marino, plant expert and editorial director of The Sill. “Pruning can help your plant grow compact and bushy, or allow you to remove dying foliage, allowing your plant to refocus its energy on healthy growth.”

“Pruning can help your plant grow compact and bushy, or allow you to remove dying foliage, allowing your plant to refocus its energy on healthy growth.” —Erin Marino, plant expert

And that’s just the beginning of how pruning can change your plant’s life. According to Marino, it can style a plant into a certain shape (particularly with bonsai trees), keep it contained to a certain pot, and remove dead or dying foliage. It might even result in creating lovely little floral siblings. And, yes, it can keep your plant’s foliage looking fresh if it’s grown a little unruly.

“Most leafy plants can benefit from the occasional pruning,” says Marino. “Sometimes that pruned foliage—if healthy—can be propagated into an entirely new plant. My favorite plant to prune and propagate is the Pothos, because I can easily propagate trimmed stems in water.”

The pruning tool you need in order to get started

Felco Classic Manual Hand Pruner — $59.00

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Now that you’re interest is piqued, you’re probably eager to start snipping. But not so fast—we don’t want to give your flowers the botanical equivalent of a bowl cut. Make sure that you have the right equipment before you chop.

“Felco pruning shears are the traditional go-to for outdoor or larger plants, but indoors on I usually just use a pair of small scissors,” Marino says. “One thing to note is I clean them after each use.”

How to prune plants the right way, in 5 easy steps

1. First, look for a node

According to Marino, this is where the magic happens. “It’s where the leaf stalk, or petiole, attaches to the stem. Nodes have dormant buds, which can be activated to cause new stems and branches,” she says. “You’ll want to cut just above, but not too close, to the node.” This encourages the bud at that node to begin to develop.

2. If you don’t see a petiole or node, cut lower

Specifically, you’ll want to make your cut flush with the potting soil. Keep in mind, though, that not every single plant will even need consistent pruning like this. “Calatheas, for example, would be trimmed this way,” says Marino. “And when it comes to super slow growers like cacti, you probably wouldn’t find yourself in a position where you need to prune.”

3. Start fresh if your plant is on it’s death bed

There’s a really good reason why you should go in deep with the pruning if it looks like your plant is dying.

“If your plant’s foliage isn’t healthy, such as the leaves have a fungal infection that just won’t quit, prune your plant back in its entirety,” says Marino. “Remove all the unhealthy foliage above the surface of the potting mix. By doing that, you’re allowing your plant to refocus its energy on new, healthy growth, instead of sustaining unhealthy growth.”

4. Seasonal trims are encouraged

Think of it like a back-to-school haircut, and one that has an important utilitarian purpose.

“As we transition from summer to fall, the amount of light your plant receives will most likely decrease,” says Marino. “Your plant will have less energy to maintain all its new summer growth and may begin to drop some leaves. This is perfectly normal. Your plant is adjusting to the lower light levels. You can give your plants a hand by pulling off a few leaves to help them retain lush and bushy foliage.”

5. Don’t be afraid to prune your plants!

It can be super intimidating to cut away at something you’ve spent all summer nurturing into this big, gorgeous, only-browning-in-some areas plant! But, as Marino reminds me, plants are more resilient than we give them credit for. So, give yourself permission to prune liberally when you think it needs a touch up.

So it’s only time our plant babies got a wellness routine of their own, too. Something to nourish them from the inside out, protect their precious fronds from pests, and help them to not just grow, but flourish. Something like Arber, the trendy plant wellness company that gives our houseplants and flowers the TLC they deserve. Like a 12-step skin care routine or a daily dietary supplement, Arber’s wellness kits take a holistic approach to helping your indoor and outdoor plants thrive and become their biggest, most beautiful selves.

Arber, Indoor Kit — $84.00

Also available in an Outdoor Kit ($84) which swaps the Plant Food for the Bio Protectant.

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Arber’s philosophy stems (lol) from our own wellness trends, like cleaner beauty and homeopathic supplements. Like us, our plants don’t necessarily like chemicals and harsh synthetics. Rather than using harmful chemicals and potentially toxic ingredients, Arber’s products are all sourced from “biologicals,” which is a science-y term for plant protection products derived from the natural world. Unlike synthetics, biologicals work with the plant’s innate microbiome (sound familiar?), to fortify them from things like pests, diseases, and pollution. This makes Arber better for your flowery friends, as well as you, your pets, and even bugs, too, detracting creepy crawlies from pestering your plants but not killing them in the process.

Currently, the Arber garden is comprised of four keystone products: a protectant, fungicide, insecticide, and plant food. And, after testing the products, they’re not too far off from the self-care supplies we use in our own daily lives. The most obvious is the Plant Food ($24), a nutritious, protein-packed supplement formulated to help them grow big and strong. It’s the liquid compost version of a protein shake, designed to “improve your plant’s uptake of essential nutrients, strengthening [them] from root to shoot.” Yum.

Then, there’s the plant’s supplement, aka, the Bio Protectant ($24). Poured into a forest green bottle, it’s the closest thing you’ll find to a vitamin C tablet, made to boost your plant’s immunity from diseases. It can be used “internally” (soaked into the soil) or “topically” (sprayed over the leaves and stems for visible signs of damage).

Finally is Arber’s version of  “skin care”: a Bio Insecticide ($24) and Bio Fungicide ($24), both of which harness non-toxic naturals to fend off unwanted visitors. They’re both safe enough to be used indoors and out, even vegetables, fruits, nuts, and edible flowers. Kinda reminds you of the bug sprays and sunscreens you relied on this summer, doesn’t it?

All of this comes in seriously cute packaging you won’t want to hide away in your garage or garden shed. Each product comes in an earthy shade that looks more fashion than fertilizer. Buy a kit, and you’ll get a handy spray bottle and steel measuring cup, too, both of which are aesthetic enough to leave out in your living room’s indoor jungle for easy access. There are no ugly, commercial-sized bleach bottles or hefty plastic bags—it’s modern and minimalist, the way we like it.

If you’ve ever felt like your plant babies are seemingly green with envy as you parade around them with your nightly face mask and mug of wellness tea, it’s because they probably are. Treat them to a wellness routine of their own and watch them thrive.

Holistic Kit — $99.00

This starter kit contains all four bio-concentrates so your plants can hit the ground running. It also comes with a spray bottle and measuring cup, making self-care day that more simple.

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Plant Food — $24.00

The snack that’ll keep them coming back. Plant Food is made from recycled supermarket waste and is packed with all sorts of goodness (nitrogen! phosphates! fatty acids!) that houseplants, garden veggies, and flowers will slurp up. Nom nom nom.

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Bio Protectant — $24.00

While we’ve got cold and flu season to reckon with, your plants have things like root rot and fungus to fend off. The Bio Protectant is your green juice that’s designed to boost your plant’s immunity, stimulating growth and strengthening it from any diseases.

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Bio Fungicide — $24.00

Like your skin, plants and flowers have “good” bacteria that helps maintain their microbiome to stave off things like mold and mildew. That’s exactly what the Bio Fungicide is made out of, and it’ll keep leaves and roots blemish free.

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Bio Insecticide — $24.00

Currently sold out individually. 

Gnats, aphids, and other creepy crawlies are no match for this powerful pesticide. Best part is, it’s as safe for the good guys (hello, pollinators) and you, too.

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“Common plant pests include mealybugs, scale, spider mites, fungus gnats, thrips, and slugs,” says Erin Marino, plant expert and director of marketing at plant company The Sill. “These pests might sound creepy crawly, but it’s important to remember these bugs are only interested in your plants—not you, your pets, or your furniture.”

Even just being near greenery can boost your mood, so you want to keep your plants happy and healthy. Wondering how to keep bugs out of indoor plants? From homemade sprays to non-toxic treatments for your plant’s soil, here’s how to get rid of bugs on plants naturally. These methods are almost foolproof and promise to keep your plants insect-free with regular maintenance.

What causes bugs in indoor plants?

Often, plants attract bugs when they’re not doing so hot. For instance, fungus gnats appear when you’ve over-watered your plant.

“When your plants are stressed, they actually can attract pests,” says Jesse Waldman, director of marketing and e-commerce at Pistils Nursery in Portland, Oregon. “Poorly cared-for plants, a plant that’s experiencing stress, whether that’s water-stress or light-stress, or just any of those sorts of environmental factors that make your plant happy or unhappy. If it’s stressed out, it’s possible that it will become more likely that it will get a pest.”

If you keep your plant happy and healthy, you don’t really have to worry about attracting bugs.

“There are bugs in our home, whether we like them or not. Fruit flies show up magically after an apple sits out for too long. Ants just are genius, little critters at getting inside. Bringing in houseplants isn’t going to really increase that in any specific way. Like a spider that found his way into your home—if there are some plants there, it might choose to make its web between your plants rather than between your curtains and your window, but that same spider’s going to be there one way or another.”

How do I get rid of little bugs on my houseplants? Options from homemade sprays to non-toxic treatments

1. Insecticidal soap

If you’re dealing with soft-bodied insects like spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs, your best bet is to use a plant spray for bugs. While you can pick up one from the store, creating a DIY insecticidal soap using natural ingredients is easy. Simply put 1/4 cup vegetable oil and 1 tbsp liquid dish soap ($9)—it must be free of bleach, degreaser, synthetic dyes, and fragrances—in a spray bottle ($8), then fill it to the top with warm water, and shake. You can spray the mixture onto your plants once a week in order to combat pest issues.

Seventh Generation Dish Soap Liquid Free & Clear — $9.00

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Tolco Empty Spray Bottles — $8.00

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2. Neem oil

“Another option would be neem oil ($21),” says Waldman “It’s an oil extracted from a nut of a specific tree. It has antimicrobial, antibiotic, and anti-pest killing properties.”

Bonide Neem Oil — $21.00

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3. Essential oils

Jules Acree, the Austin, Texas-based wellness blogger and plant expert, likes to keep pests away with a DIY repellent. To make this indoor plant pesticide, she mixes 1 tbsp of tea tree oil ($9 to $52) and with one cup of water in a spray bottle.

Now Essential Oils Tea Tree Oil — $9.00 to $52.00)

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4. Diatomaceous Earth

Acree also tops the soil of all new plants with a pet- and kid-safe food-grade diatomaceous earth powder. This dries out the insects and their larvae.

Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade — $26.00

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5. Dry out your plants

If you’re noticing pests on the dirt, it’s time to explore how to get rid of bugs on indoor plant soil. Pests like fungus gnats that thrive in moist soil in houseplants can be combated by simply taking away what they love: the moisture. (Sorry, gnats.) According to Susan Spanger, professional gardener and floral designer of Bloomful Floral Design, the best thing you can do in these types of situations is water your plants less often than you normally would in order to completely dry out the top couple inches of soil. “Watering frequently and keeping soil consistently damp is ideal for egg hatch and larvae survival,” she says.

Without moist soil, you’re taking away fungus gnats’ food source: fungi in the soil. By allowing it to dry out, The Sill says that major food source will be gone—and, because of that, the fungus gnats will be gone, too. Spanger says you can spread a half-inch of sand over the surface of your soil as well. “It dries out quickly and provides a scratchy surface that’s unappealing for adult fungus gnats looking to lay eggs,” she says. Those houseplant bugs will be gone for good.

How to prevent bugs on indoor plants

1. Check and quarantine new plants

The best way to keep your houseplant bug-free is to tackle the issue as soon as you bring it home. Even if a plant looks pristine, there might be bugs hiding between the leaves and in the soil. As soon as Acree, gets home with a new plant, she puts it in the bathtub in order to do some pest control.”You never know what might be lurking in the soil waiting to hatch a few weeks later, so you always want to be one step ahead,” says Acree.

2. Keep your tools, pots, and hands clean

When repotting a plant, be sure to put it into a clean pot. And clean any tools, like pruning shears, before and after you use them. That way, you’re not spreading bacteria and other irritants between plants. Plant doctor Maryah Greene recommends disinfecting these items with rubbing alcohol. “Before you go in and cut your plant, or even switch between different plants, make sure [your shears are] clean, and they have a sharp edge,” she says. You also want to make sure you’re handling your plants with clean hands.

Houseplant bug FAQs:

1. Is it common to have bugs in your houseplants?

“Plants are living things. Pest infestation is totally normal and treatable,” says Marino.

2. How can you tell if your indoor plants have bugs?

The most noticeable sign is yellowing, browning, or dropping leaves. But, these are also symptoms of other common plant issues. That’s why it’s important to regularly inspect plants and look out for signs of bugs.

“Each pest leaves a specific calling card that is unique to them,” says Nick Cutsumpas, the plant coach and urban farmer behind Farmer Nick. “For example, spider mites spin thin webs at the base and underside of the leaf, while scale bugs attach themselves to stems and leave a sticky residue.”

3. What types of houseplants repel insects?

Plants that repel insects do it because the bugs don’t like their scent. “There are a lot of common herbs you can grow [in pots] in your windowsill that repel bugs including rosemary, lemon balm, lemongrass, peppermint, and lavender,” says Paris Lalicata, a customer experience coordinator The Sill. Marigolds, petunias, and chrysanthemums are insect-repelling flowers. “Not only do they look pretty outside, but you can have big, flowering pots of them inside too and they look beautiful,” says Lalicata.

4. What should I wipe my plant leaves with?

Grab the spray of your choice from above and a clean cloth ($15) and you’re good to go.

Whiff Botanicals Whiffkitch Bamboo Dishcloths & Cleaning Cloths — $15.00

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5. Should I put Epsom salt on my plants?

Epsom salt can be helpful if your leaves are yellowing due to nutrient-deficient soil. Epsom salt gives plants adequate magnesium.

6. Is hydrogen peroxide good for indoor plants?

Hydrogen peroxide can be used to kill fungus gnats on plants. Plus, when used sparingly, it can help plants grow by giving the roots added oxygen. Just be sure to dilute it—use 1 tsp of hydrogen peroxide per cup of water.

7. How do bugs spread between houseplants?

When plants are clustered together with some overlap, it’s easy for pests to spread. That’s why it’s important to quarantine infected or new plants so pests can’t spread.

8. When should I give up on a dying houseplant?

Say the infestation really did a number on the plant. You’ve sprayed, cut off dying leaves, and repotted. But, the plant is on its last leg. If you’ve exhausted all of your options, it may be time to pull the plug. “Think of this as an opportunity to test out new plants, as those empty planters will need to be filled,” says Marino.

Now, just like other popular houseplants, you’ll need to consider the conditions of the place you’ve chosen for your trusty new tree friend before you buy. The best indoor trees will thrive in the right settings, with the right care. “You’ll need to assess the light exposure of the location you’re aiming to fill, as well as how often you’re able to water the plant,” says Caroline Copeland, a design expert at online custom landscape design platform Yardzen. “Most indoor trees will prefer partial direct sun or very bright indirect light.”

Make sure to choose a tree with care requirements you’re willing to meet. Some trees can do well indoors simply with the right setting and some watering only every couple of weeks. Other, more finicky trees (cough cough, the fiddle-leaf fig!) need more attention. These require more water, more misting, and more overall care.

Matt Witemyre, who teaches in the landscape horticulture department at Merritt College Oakland in California, echoed Copeland’s advice about indoor trees needing more light, but added, “You can grow any tree indoors if you slowly acclimate it.”

If you’re ready to go out on a limb (lol) and invest in an indoor tree, you’ve come to the right spot. Below, we’ve rounded up expert-approved indoor trees that’ll spruce up any space, complete with care instructions, pet-friendliness, and how tall they can grow. No more beating around the bush—scroll to shop, below.

Best Indoor Trees

Rubber Tree (Ficus elastica) — $65.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy
Ideal conditions: Partial direct sun or very bright indirect light; water every two weeks; ideal temperature 60–80°F
Maximum height: 6–10 feet
Pet-friendly: No

The rubber tree, recommended by both Copeland and Witemyre, is related to the fiddle-leaf fig (which The New York Times recently labeled a “former ‘It’ plant”), but is easier to care for, according to Copeland. She shared a tip about how to best water a rubber tree. “To ensure sufficient water absorption, aerate the soil by gently inserting a chopstick before each watering. This tip can be applied to any plant to maintain a healthy environment for the roots.”

Pictured is the burgundy rubber tree, but Copeland says the rubber tree is also available in white, yellow, pinks, and light green. This tree arrives in a grower pot.

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Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) — $149.00

Difficulty level for care: Very easy
Ideal conditions: Bright light; water every two weeks; ideal temperature 70–80°F
Maximum height: Up to 10 feet indoors
Pet-friendly: Yes; nontoxic to cats and dogs

If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, eye-catching indoor tree, the ponytail palm (also called the “elephant’s foot”) could be for you. These tangly trees are super simple to care for—although, if you tend to be an impatient person regarding caring for plants, you may want to skip owning one. “Ponytail palms grow very slowly, so I would suggest grabbing the biggest size you can find. This slow growth can be a benefit if you don’t plan on learning how to prune anytime soon,” Copeland says.

Wait a while, though, and you’ll be rewarded with a striking plant. “I’ve got a 6-foot-tall one in my apartment and it looks incredible,” Witemyre says. Or fast forward and buy this large ponytail palm from Bloomscape instead, which comes in five different colored pots that’ll jazz up your living room.

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Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia nicolai) — $98.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy
Ideal conditions: Bright, direct light (at least six hours); water thoroughly every two weeks (plus mist occasionally); ideal temperature 50–70°F
Maximum height: 10 feet and up
Pet-friendly: No

If you’ve got a super sunny spot in your home and want to add a tropical vibe, consider a Bird of Paradise. “If you’re looking to place a tree in an area of your house that receives more than six hours of sunlight per day, a Strelitzia … is the way to go,” Copeland says. She shared that a related species, Strelitzia reginae, is a more manageable option, so if you don’t exactly have a green thumb, it may be a better choice.

But if you do go with this tropical tree, Copeland suggests wiping the leaves clean with a wet cloth every few week because Bird of Paradise are susceptible to harmful spider mites.

Plant e-retailer, The Sill, sells a variety of sizes of Bird of Paradise plants, including a large-and-in-charge beauty for $98.

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Candelabra Spurge (Euphorbia ammak var. Variegata) — $68.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy
Ideal conditions: Ample sunlight; very little water (water every four to six weeks, depending on size); ideal temperature 65–85°F
Maximum height: 15–20 feet outdoors
Pet-friendly: No

Living a pet-free life? Copeland recommends checking out the candelabra spurge. “For those who leave home for extended periods of time—or are just forgetful about watering—I would suggest a Euphorbia ammak variegata,” she says. “This cactus-like plant needs to be fully dry before being watered again.”

Just note—it’s not OK for pets to munch on, and it’s also unpleasant to bump into, as Copeland explains. “Be aware that most Euphorbias have spines, so this is not a good option if you have young children or pets in your home,” she says.

This tree will arrive without soil or a pot—so you should have one ready when you order—and will measure at least 14 inches.

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Song of India (Dracaena reflexa) — $69.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy
Ideal conditions: Bright indirect light; water with with filtered, room-temperature water and let the top 1–2 inches dry out before watering; ideal temperature 65–80°F
Maximum height: At least 15 feet
Pet-friendly: No

YPottery Barn doesn’t only sell faux plants, but live ones, too.

Copeland shared a couple of care tips for this tree—beyond ensuring proper light. “Minerals in our tap water, such as chlorine, cause build up in Dracaena’s leaves, which crisp up the edges.” She adds, “Check for mealy bugs that like to hide in the crevices of this impressive plant.” (According to the University of Maryland Extension, you can carefully use rubbing alcohol to rid the tree of these bugs.)

Copeland also provided a more aesthetic recommendation. “Removing the lower leaves can show off its intricate trunk and won’t hurt the plant so long as you don’t take off more than a third of the overall leaf mass,” she says.

This tree is available in 4-inch and 6-inch sizes in white, black, and terra-cotta pots. Expect it to grow only 3 to 4 inches a year.

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Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla) — $100.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy
Ideal conditions: Partial sun ideally, but can tolerate low light; water and mist tree weekly; ideal temperature of 55–65°F
Maximum height: 2–5 feet indoors
Pet-friendly: No

Witemyre shared an enthusiastic recommendation for Norfolk island pines as indoor trees. “Norfolk Island pine is a fantastic plant to grow indoors—super easy and gets large, and [unlike most trees] can actually handle low light,” he says.

Fun fact: While this tree has “pine” in its name, the Norfolk Island pine isn’t a real pine tree. (Even though it looks like one to anyone who isn’t a tree expert.) It is, however, from Norfolk Island in the Pacific Ocean.

This tree is available in two heights: 2–3 feet and 3–4 feet.

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Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis) — $22.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy to medium
Ideal conditions: Full sun to partial shade; water twice a week; ideal temperature 60–80°F
Maximum height: Indoors, usually pruned to 4–6 feet
Pet-friendly: No

Laurus nobilis is one of the plants we get bay leaves from, so if you like to cook, you’ll enjoy having access to fresh bay leaves. You’ll find that fresh leaves have a stronger flavor than the dry ones you buy at the store. (By the way, if you’ve never cooked with bay leaves, make sure to take the leaf out before serving the dish.)

“You can grow a Laurus nobilis as long as you acclimate them to low-light conditions over time,” says Witemyre. If you’re not willing to do that, or you’d rather have a beginner-level indoor tree, he recommends simply displaying some sweet bay cuttings in a vase instead. This 1-foot tree from Etsy will arrive in a 6-inch pot.

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Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) — $47.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy
Ideal conditions: Medium to bright indirect light; water every one to two weeks; ideal temperature 65–75°F
Maximum height: 2–6 feet indoors
Pet-friendly: Yes

Chamaedorea elegans, recommended by Witemyre as an indoor tree, probably has one of the fanciest-sounding tree scientific names. Besides parlor palm, its other nickname is bamboo palm, due to its bamboo-like stems. This tree’s flowers produce fruit, but unfortunately, they’re only good for looking at, not eating.

Note that a parlor palm shouldn’t be repotted (in other words, transferred to a larger container) more than every 2-3 years—but it grows very slowly. You can buy two different sizes of palms from The Sill: small ($48) and large ($180). It comes in four types of containers (including an up-cycled option) in two different sizes, 5 inches and 12 inches.

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Ti Plant (Cordyline terminalis) — $110.00

Difficulty level for care: Easy to medium
Ideal conditions: Bright, indirect light; keep soil moist and mist tree frequently; fertilize regularly; ideal temperature of 65–95°F
Maximum height: 3–5 feet indoors
Pet-friendly: No

The Ti plant is also called the cabbage plant, palm lily, and good luck plant—and yes, it’s supposed to bring you good luck. And luckily for newbie plant parents, this tree is easy to care for. Some cultures have used the Ti plant for religious purposes, and it has many other uses.

The Ti plant is a great choice if you want to add some tropical vibes to your home. (Fun fact: In Hawaii, its leaves are used to make leis and hula skirts.)

This extra large Cordyline terminalis from Lively Root is available in a grower planter, eco pot planter, and basket planter, and looks gorgeous in bright, indirect light.

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Best Indoor Fruit Trees

Calamondin bush (Citrus mitis) — $80.00

Difficulty level for care: Medium
Ideal conditions: 6 to 8 hours of bright sunlight; allow the top 1–2 inches of soil to dry between waterings (and mist daily; consider a humidifier), use citrus fertilizer; ideal temperature 65–80°F
Maximum size: 3–4 feet indoors
Pet-friendly: No

While Witemyre says that, “citrus is usually pretty tough indoors” in general, he also shared that a Calamondin bush may still flower or fruit indoors.

The fruit you find on a Calamondin is usually called a “mini orange” and is a cross between a mandarin orange and a kumquat. The bush can produce fruit the first or second year, and the mini orange is a great choice for making marmalades and marinades as well as juicing, cooking, and baking (including flavoring cakes!).

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Musa Dwarf Cavendish Banana (Musa acuminata) — $50.00

Difficulty level for care: Medium
Ideal conditions: 6–12 hours of direct sun; water consistently to prevent soil from drying (and consider a humidifier); ideal temperature 75–80+°F
Maximum height: 6 feet
Pet-friendly: Yes; nontoxic to cats and dogs

Bananas inside your home? It’s true! David Angelov, the founder, CEO, and garden master at Plant Parenthood, recommends the banana tree for indoors, but notes that it needs a lot of water and that its pot must have adequate drainage. “The roots rot easily without proper airflow in the pot,” he says.

Banana trees thrive in hot and humid conditions, so if you love cranking up the air conditioning in the summertime to a level your guests call “freezing,” you should probably choose another tree. (If you don’t have AC, well, here’s a silver lining for living in a very warm home.)

Lively Root offers this banana tree in sizes medium to extra large in a grower planter, eco pot planter, and basket planter.

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Meyer Lemon Tree (Citrus × meyeri 'Improved') — $30.00

Difficulty level for care: Medium to difficult
Ideal conditions: More than 10 hours of day of bright light; water; ideal temperature of 50–80°F
Maximum height: 8 feet
Pet-friendly: No

Angelov recommends the lemon tree as a good choice for an indoor tree, saying that it,“serves a dual purpose: [It] bears fruit and brings beautiful foliage. All of this, right in your living room or bedroom—or even the bathroom, if you have windows.”

Just note, you’ll have to be a little patient and not expect homegrown Meyer lemons immediately. One to four years is a likely time frame. This tree is available in four heights that range from 1–2 feet to 5–6 feet.

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Even if you’re one of those people who has never met a houseplant they couldn’t kill (it happens!), a good pair of gardening shears can make a great practical gift for a friend or family member with a green thumb. (Throw in a pair of gardening shoes,  or a full-blown houseplant, if you’re feeling generous.)

Every gardener seems to have their favorite gardening shears—or at least a favorite brand—and we asked master gardeners and other gardening experts to share their top recommendations. Ahead are best gardening shears for your horticultural hobby or  every-weekend yard work—or both.

The best garden shears, at a glance:

• Best overall: Felco F2 One-Handed Pruning Shear ($57)
• Most comfortable: Felco F7 One-Handed Pruning Shear ($70)
• Best budget: Fiskars Bypass Pruner ($10)
• Best without rubber grips: Barebones Living, Pruner ($50)
• Best for houseplants: Burgon & Ball Flower & Fruit Snips ($18)
• Best for precision: Burgon & Ball Houseplant Pruner ($25)
• Best scissors: Fiskars SP15 Solid Pruning Shears ($13)

The best garden shears, according to master gardeners

Best overall

Felco, F2 One-Handed Pruning Shear — $57.00

Felco is the favorite garden shears brand of many gardeners, including Kendra Poppy, head of growth at online custom landscape design platform, Yardzen. She recommends the F2 model. “[These are my] all-time favorite shearers and one of the most ubiquitous amongst landscapers and home gardeners,” she says. “Both strong and nimble—for everything from deadheading to significant pruning.

Made in Switzerland, these garden shears are ergonomic and easily adjustable, and they have shock absorbers to prevent wrist strain, plus comfortable rubber handles. Felco provides a limited lifetime warranty.

– Pros: Comfortable, durable.

– Cons: Pricey; Poppy notes: “The one con is that they can get rusty when exposed to the elements, but they are very easy to clean and restore.”

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Best comfort

Felco, F7 One-Handed Pruning Shear — $70.00

Christy Wilhelmi, founder of the website Gardenerd, is another big Felco fan. “Felco shears are an investment—not like the $7 pruners you’ll have to buy every year at Home Depot,” she says. “[They] last a lifetime, and they sell replacement parts. I’ve had the same pair for nearly 30 years and will probably be able to use them another 20 years.”

Jane Milliman, publisher of Upstate Gardeners’ Journal in upstate New York, specifically recommends the F7 pruning shear because of its revolving handle, which she says can “drastically reduce hand pain.” She adds, “Felcos are the pros’ gold standard. I’ve been in the business 25 years and have only owned one pair.” The F7 shears are ergonomic and easily adjustable and allow the user to apply maximum cutting power without having to expend too much effort. This feature reduces blisters and hand fatigue.

– Pros: Reduces hand pain, suitable for large hands (if that’s what you’re looking for.)

– Cons: Pricey,

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Best budget

Fiskars, Bypass Pruner — $10.00

These ambidextrous garden shears are recommended by master gardener, Kim B., founder of the website Black Homesteader. “They are great for people who are left handed—like me—and easy to clean,” she says.

Aimee Sue Dunlap, a master gardener in St. Louis, MO, is another fan of Fiskars’ affordable tools. “For shears and loppers, I generally use Fiskars,” she says. “I’ve never had to replace any of them.”

These pruners are designed to cut green, living growth (up to 5/8 inches) while providing an ergonomic, comfortable grip for right-handers and left-handers alike. They feature a non-stick blade coating for smooth cutting and rust resistance, an angled cutting head to reduce wrist fatigue, and a self-cleaning sap groove (say that five times fast). Fiskars offers a full lifetime warranty.

– Pros: Affordable, can be used by both right- and left-handers,

– Cons: Not multipurpose.

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Best without rubber grips

Barebones Living, Pruner — $50.00

If you aim to be an ethical shopper, make note of Barebones, a Utah-based company that focuses on sustainability and philanthropy. It’s also a certified B corp, which means (among other things) that it maintains high social and environmental performance. Beyond gardening tools, the company sells knives, grills, camp lights, and more.

Yardzen’s Poppy appreciates the quality of the company’s products. “Barebones has a great line of outdoor tools, and these steel pruners are up for any landscaping job,” she says. The pruner doesn’t quite look like any of the others on our list, which can be explained by Barebones’s note that this model was, “inspired by old-world Japanese design.” The copper-plated accents make it feel a bit fancier, too (as much as a pair of garden shears can be fancy, that is.)

– Pros: Pruner sheath available for safe storage (sold separately.)

– Cons: No rubber on grips.

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Best for houseplants

Burgon & Ball, Flower & Fruit Snips — $18.00

British company Burgon & Ball has been in business even longer than the U.S. has been a country—since 1730, to be exact. “Bloomscape is a big fan of Burgon & Ball garden tools thanks to their high quality and durability,” says Lindsay Pangborn, gardening expert at Bloomscape, a gardening center that sells houseplants and gardening tools.

Pangborn particularly recommends these plant snips (which are also endorsed by the Royal Horticultural Society.) “These plant snips are a versatile essential for gardeners,” she says. “I recommend this tool for those looking to prune thin-to medium-sized stems, remove dead leaves, or for harvesting fruit and flowers. For houseplants, these are the most versatile option and can also be used on annuals and perennials outdoors.”

– Pros: Comfortable, rust-resistant.

– Cons: Not multipurpose.

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Best for precision

Burgon & Ball, Houseplant Pruner — $25.00

Pangborn calls this pruner from Burgon & Ball a ,“must-have” for those who care for larger plants, such as fiddle-leaf figs, palms, or rubber trees. “It cuts through larger, woody stems with ease, so it’s also great for pruning small branches on outdoor shrubs and trees,” she says. “If you are looking for a tool you can use both indoors and out, plant pruners are your most versatile option.”

The shape of the easy-to-clean, stainless steel blades on these garden shears is especially designed to isolate individual leaves and stems so that you can be precise as you prune.

– Pros: Rust-resistant, precise.

– Cons: Not multipurpose.

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Best scissors

Fiskars, SP15 Solid Pruning Shears — $13.00

If you’re looking for affordable garden scissors under $15 that’ll get the job done, Fiskars is the brand for you. “Anything from the [brand’s] Solid line will be lightweight and inexpensive,” says Milliman. “I keep good track of my Felcos, but Fiskars can migrate around and I don’t get too worried about them getting lost.”

These solid pruning shears, which can be easily used by both right and left-handed gardeners, are designed for making precise cuts to plants and flowers and also for trimming thin branches (up to 10 mm). They’re easy to sharpen, they have an ergonomic grip, and the upper blade is non-stick to make cutting easier.

– Pros: Affordable, lightweight.

– Cons: Not multipurpose.

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With so many benefits, it’s no wonder people are taking up gardening, as well as buying houseplants, to connect with nature right in the comforts of their home. “The houseplant market has doubled in the past few years as people caught on to how wonderful they are in an apartment or on a balcony,” Harris says.

When you’re just get started, it’s natural to want some expert advice on how to get your garden to grow.

Here’s a gardening checklist for beginner green thumbs

1. Do a little research on your plants

Different plant species need different care approaches. “For example, a cactus is very different from a peace lily, and snake plants are different from ivies, so research prior to make sure you know you’re giving your plants the right care they need,” Harris says.

2. Plant according to sun and shade needs

Placing plants in the wrong spot is the biggest mistake people make in the garden, according to Harris. “It’s important to choose ‘the right plant for the right place.” This means shade-loving plants have shade and sun-loving plants have sun,” he says. Ferns and hydrangeas love the shade, for example, whereas roses and lavender love the sun. Plant them in the right spot, and they’ll thrive. This is intel you should be able to find in your research, or on the tag or seed pack for your plants. If not, ask an associate at the nursery or garden where you go to pick out your plants.

For indoor plants, Harris recommends keeping them far away from heat sources. “Choose light, airy places away from radiators and full sun for glossy foliage plants,” he says.

3. Regularly check for pests

In particular, aphids, slugs, and snails can damage your outside plants. “Aphids usually attack new growth so look there first, and if you see them, act straight away,” he says. “Use soapy dishwater and rubber gloves to rub aphids off the stems,” he says. Slugs and snails can be kept at bay with copper tape, eggshells, and sheep wool. “Indoor plants get pests too, with mealybugs being common, so use neem oil or rubbing alcohol to kill them and repot afterwards to make sure any eggs are destroyed too,” he says. Take note: you may need to do this a few times.

4. Give them a good soak as needed

How often you need to water your plants will depend on the type. But all plants respond well to a long soak of water when they’re starting to dry out. There are very few that benefit from daily watering or a dribble here or there.

With outdoor plants, it’s important not to underestimate the water requirement of container pots. “It’s not only the sun that dries them out, but also wind does too, and containers need at least a weekly drench in the growing months and most likely a weekly feed too,” he says. In really hot weather, hanging baskets and plants like tomatoes might need a daily water supply and replenishment.

Indoor plants need a little more care when it comes to watering. “Only water your plant when the topsoil is dry, as every day watering will drown and rot the roots,” Harris says. “Check each week, hold off if the soil is still damp, and take note: You should never leave your plant in a container of water—soak it in the sink, let it drain, and then put it back in its decorative pot.”

5. Turn your indoor plants weekly

“Turn indoor container plants a quarter of a turn each week so each side gets the same amount of sun and grows evenly,” says Harris. All plants will stretch for light, and so by turning them frequently, your plants will end up straight.

6. Follow feed protocols accordingly

“Strong plant food that’s given to plants too often will kill any plant, where their leaves will turn yellow and they’ll collapse,” Harris says. So read fertilizer instructions and plant labels before feeding your plants, and make sure you adhere to their advice.

7. Re-pot plants as necessary

If you’re doing a good job, your plants in containers will outgrow their homes. That means that you’ll need to re-pot when you start to see the roots start showing. “Rootbound plants struggle to take up water and nutrients and start to fail, and that’s where you’ll need to move to the next size pot when roots appear in drainage holes or the plant is bursting at its seams,” Harris says.

8. Prune at the appropriate time

While doing your research, if you decide on flowing plants, make sure you figure out how they prefer to be pruned once they bloom. “Some plants only flower on old wood, so if you cut it all back in autumn, you’ll have no flowers next year,” Harris says.

Essential tools for first-time gardeners

Hand trowel

“A hand trowel is a small spade used for digging container soil and shallow depth borders,” says Harris. You can use it to make a planting hole by stabbing it into the soil and dragging it towards you, as if you’re rowing a boat. They are versatile garden tools and according to Harris, the number one essential.

Smith & Hawken Digging Spade Shovel with Hardwood Handle Black — $10.00

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Hand fork

“It’s best used for weeding and loosening soil before using a hand towel to plant up,” Harris says. Small hand forks are especially useful for when you need to weed around plants that are close together without disrupting the roots.

Smith & Hawken Digging Cultivator with Short Hardwood Handle — $10.00

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Border spade

A full-size spade is an essential tool for gardens that have large borders. It’s used to turn over soil or make large, straight-sided holes. “Use your foot to press the spade into the soil and your arms to turn soil over,” Harris says. Be sure to wear tough, close-toed shoes you don’t mind getting dirty.

Razor-Back 28 in. Wood D-Handle Border Spade — $33.00

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Border fork

Similar to a full-sized spade, the border fork differs in that it’s pronged and breaks soil into chunks, without requiring you to lift as much soil weight when doing so. “If you’re digging a border, use a garden fork to break up soil before moving onto your spade to make a planting hole,” says Harris. Just push down on the forkhead with your foot, and pull the fork backward to turn the soil.

Ames 4-Tine Forged Spading Fork — $45.00

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Gloves

Gloves protect your hands from abrasion and dirt. “Choose thick leather gloves if you’re pruning or cutting brambles and nettles back and lightweight gloves if you’re just weeding or planting,” says Harris.

Digz Planter Work Gloves — $10.00

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Watering can

All plants need water! A watering can should be easy to lift, so don’t buy the biggest you can find. “Choose one with well-fitting ‘rows’ that sprinkles water evenly over soil,” Harris says. “A big splash of water without rows disrupts soil structure and washes smaller plants away,” he explains.

Best Choice Products Watering Can — $35.00

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Secateurs

Secateurs are tough garden scissors and are needed for pruning back shrubs and other cutting jobs. They have large comfortable handles and safety blades that lock when you’re not using them. “Choose bypass motion secateurs because they cause less damage to living branches than anvil types,” Harris suggests.

Fiskars Bypass Pruner — $10.00

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Fertilizer

Fertilizer, mulch, or any kind of plant food is important to best take care of your garden and plants and to provide them with high quality nutrition. “Boost their nutrient uptake with chicken manure, horse manure, or liquid seaweed/tomato food, especially if you have container plants, which are limited to what’s in the pot,” he says.

Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Fertilizer — $21.00

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Essential tools for houseplants owners

Decorative pot

Houseplants usually arrive in thin plastic pots that have drainage holes in the base, and you’ll want to keep the pots, rather than remove them. “You should always keep your plant in one of these so you can water and drain it effectively,” he says. Then, choose a decorative pot without drainage holes and put the plastic pot inside it for display purposes.

Smith & Hawken Indoor/Outdoor Earthenware Planter — $27.00

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Mister or sprayer

“Many leafy green foliage plants love misting because it replicates their natural environment e.g. the Amazon rainforest floor, so save an old kitchen cleaner bottle or buy a houseplant sprayer to wash off dust and increase humidity around foliage plants,” he says. It’ll help them glow.

Miracle-Gro Ready-To-Use Orchid Plant Food Mist — $5.00

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Bigger drainage pots and compost

Every year or so houseplants need transplanting to a larger pot with fresh new compost. “Always use free-draining, good-quality compost, since garden soil is just asking for problems, as it’s heavy, claggy, and introduces pests,” he says.

Plant food

“Check the label, but it’s likely your houseplant will need a very weak fertilizer once a month, with cactus, succulents, and orchids being exceptions, needing even less,” Harris says. Houseplants need regular food because they use up the pot’s available nutrients quickly, and Harris explains that liquid plant food is the best option, here. It’s an easy way to restore nutrients that houseplants need in order to maintain good health.

Miracle-Gro Pour & Feed Liquid Plant Food Ready to Use — $6.00

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The Meaning of a Red Rose

At this point in time, red roses are so synonymous with passion that celebrity psychic Inbaal Honigman says it’s practically impossible to assume any other meaning. “The image of a single red rose is so enduring, so embedded in the public consciousness, that no one can really add any extra meanings to it,” she says. “Any attempt to ‘adopt’ the red rose into a new significance is sure to fail.”

That said, if you’re looking for deeper red rose meaning, Honigman says you can tie the flower to the chakras. “The color red is the color of the base chakra, and speaks of base urges and needs,” she explains. “The base chakra is right at the top of our legs, where they meet, and is thus connected to our privates—and what we do with them.”

While sex might be the first thing to pop into mind, Honigman says that the color red is tied to sexuality, courage, and strength as a whole. “When we wear red, we feel invincible,” she says. “Red hair, red lipstick, red shoes—they are used by people to increase their vigor, as perceived by themselves, for extra confidence, and as perceived by others, as well.”

Red Roses in Relationships

Think of some of Hollywood’s most romantic moments. When Edward Lewis overcame his fear of heights and ascended Vivian Ward’s fire escape? He was toting along a bouquet of ruby-red roses. Now, think of some of Hollywood’s most passionate (albeit, misguided) moments. In the film American Beauty, red roses are everywhere amidst Lester Burnham and Angela Hayes’ illicit affair. And according to Honigman, it makes sense.

“A red rose is for passionate love,” she says. “It is given to you by someone who would love to take you out. Or maybe in! …Giving a red rose to a present partner says ‘I still fancy you’”

Still, just because a red rose symbolizes passion doesn’t always mean that it’s tied to the best of intentions—at least not for all parties involved. “We obviously connect red roses with love but there’s a bit more to it than that, it’s also secrecy like a love affair, passion, and courage,” says psychic and creator of Psychic Reading Expert, Christine Wallace. “The color red is bold, and it can represent feelings of love so strong that nothing would get in the way of the feelings and efforts the giver of these roses feels, and what this one might do to win the receiver’s love.”

Red Roses and Death

We know what you’re thinking: If red roses are all about passion and love, how can they also go hand-in-hand with death?

“The symbol of the red rose was used by the English county of Lancashire since the 1300s, and is emblazoned on many a military badge,” Honigman shares. “The Wars of the Roses in the 1400s involved this red rose county, fighting with its neighbor, Yorkshire, which had as its symbol a white rose.” Despite their best effort, Lancashire lost the war and many of the county’s nobles died in the process. So, who knows, that might just be why now, some 620 years later, red roses make their way onto caskets and graves, too.

Other Red Rose Meanings

Now that you know the meaning of red roses, you might feel even more inclined to give the vibrant flower to someone you know. If that’s the case, you have options. You can take the fresh flower delivery route, with services like 1800Flowers, or you can opt for something that will last a lot longer. If the latter sounds like the better option of the two, be sure to check out Venus et Fleur. The celebrity-favorite forever flower brand specializes in what they call Eternity Roses, which are essentially expertly-preserved roses designed to last for up to a year or longer. Intrigued? Check out some of our favorite red rose options from the brand, below.

Venus et Fleur Le Mini Round — $53.00

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Venus et Fleur Le Petit Round — $219.00

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Venus et Fleur Large Round — $399.00

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“When I first became a plant parent, I kind of went overboard with cacti and succulents because I heard that they were some of the easiest to care for and they thrive off of neglect,” says Maryah Greene, a plant expert and stylist who also goes by the Plant Doctor. “However, I didn’t realize that there are so many differences between the different types, and that some prefer more water than others.”

“There are so many differences between the different types of cacti and succulents, and some prefer more water than others.” — Maryah Greene, plant expert

Greene shares what you should know about succulent and cactus care in the latest episode of Greene Thumb by Well+Good, YouTube series all about plant care. We often treat these plant varieties as a monolith, which Greene says is wrong and can lead to improper care.

“There are over 6,500 species of succulents,” says Greene. “Long ago in evolutionary history, cacti actually had leaves. But over time, they evolved to transition so that they could live in their changing climate. As their climate changed and became more dry, they started storing water, and they dropped off their leaves, and eventually, they started shifting in shape, which is why they look a bit taller and rounder like they do now.”

In this episode, Greene debunks common myths and shares some good-to-know succulent- and cactus-care facts. Check them out below

The 3 most important things to know about succulent and cactus care

1. Succulents need water

“A pretty common misconception is that succulents rarely need water,” says Greene. “It actually depends on the type of succulents and the region, that it originated from.” For example, some succulents such as aloes and haworthias evolved in regions that got a lot of rain at one period of time followed by periods of drought.

Fairy Washboard Haworthia 2.5" Pot — $6.00

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Hedgehog Aloe — $10.00

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“This aloe vera plant is a perfect example of a succulent that can hold a lot of water in its leaves,” says Greene. “You might have seen them grow pretty big and deserts, but even at home, they can get pretty large and leaf size.”

In addition to considering the type of succulent you have, you also have to adjust watering for the time of year. “This will dictate how often and how much water it should receive,” she says.

2. You should always water succulents first thing in the morning

“Another misconception that I hear from my clients all the time, is that succulents can be watered just about any time of day,” says Greene. “They actually prefer to be watered in the morning, especially before the sun becomes the strongest.”

Cesun Indoor Watering Can with Long Straight Spout Small Metal Watering Can for Houseplant Succulent — $25.00

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3. Succulents don’t need to be repotted that often

“[Succulents] don’t need to be repotted as often as other houseplants,” says Greene. “Most succulents grow pretty slowly, as you might know. But they also don’t want to go into something too big because too much soil will keep the plant way too moist…soil needs to be dry.” For smaller succulents, consider a small planter with a drainage hole, like the below pot that’s four inches wide and three inches tall.

Tierney Kreider Curvy Terracotta Planter — $30.00

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You’ll also want to make sure you’re using the right soil. “You can often purchase your own succulent cacti soil for if you’re feeling adventurous, you can make your own,” says Greene. “You can use regular house bare soil, and just add a little bit of perlite sand or an extra drainage stone.”

Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix - Classic Blend (Mini Bag) — $20.00

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To Kwong, mindfulness and plant life are one and the same. As the founder of Studio Lily Kwong, a next-generation landscape design studio, her mission is to reconnect people to nature. Now, she’s partnered with JW Marriott to launch gardens—at the Desert Springs Resort & Spa, but also at the JW Marriott Orlando Bonnet Creek Resort & Spa and JW Marriott Essex House New York—that are sort of kitchen gardens with a twist, using local vegetation and herbs. They’ll support the culinary efforts of the resorts, but also serve as an education and respite center for all guests who want to explore each space. “For me, [mindfulness and landscape] are a fully integrated experience,” says Kwong. “It’s my own kind of like wellness and self-care—plant life. It completely resets my whole energy field.”

We sat down with Kwong to talk through her Marriott partnership, how everyone is intrinsically a plant person, and the idea that plants reflect the care we give to ourselves.

On mindfulness and nature

Going on a walk in nature is like plugging back into a source. I’m sure you probably feature shinrin-yoku, the idea of forest bathing, where it drastically kind of reduces inflammation, de-stresses people, all these things that have incredible physiological benefits. So for me, extended periods in nature is really important to my mental health and well-being.

On gardening and connection

Gardening is a very meditative experience. It’s also a very humbling experience. I think for me, it’s taught me a lot of humility. There’s a reason why things like scrubbing the floors are part of a kind of spiritual training. It’s like that kind of getting down close to the ground, doing something repetitive, doing something where you can kind of turn off your analytical brain, is something that can be really healing, especially in our time, in our culture where you’re constantly overstimulated and kind of over-firing and overthinking.

I think the studies show that Americans spend 90 percent of their time indoors. That’s staggering. And that, of course, would disrupt your kind of rhythms—circadian rhythms, your stress levels. So I think practices that get people outside can be incredibly healing.

On her thought of taking care of plants as meditation

Most people’s plants die because they’re not actually listening to them. Plants pretty clearly tell you if they need water or if they’re overwatered. Usually it’s a watering issue. They’re either being overwatered or under-watered.

For me, I push my finger in the soil and like baking a cake, if the soil comes up and is covering my finger, it’s too wet. And I leave it. So that’s just it. That’s a very practical thing, but then I think the more energetic advice is to just take a second to check in with your houseplants every day. It can be a split second, but often people are not attuned to them. And so there’s suffering, and they’ve been screaming out for water for days, and then it’s too late.

Then the second reason why they usually die is sun exposure—they’re either not getting enough sun or they’re getting too much. My plant Yoda guru guy always says, “Right plant, right place.” For example, the common fiddle-leaf fig, they need a ton of sunlight. Whereas like philodendron, those more kind of big, tropical, leafy plants, they can take a little bit more shade.

On the myth of not being a “plant person”

The amount of times people find out what I do or they know what I do, and they say, “Oh, I can’t keep a plant alive” is just so common. And it’s so sad to me that people feel like they’re lethal to their plant. I just think we are very similar to them. It’s like, we need care. We need water. We need nutrients. We need to be listened to.

We all have a birthright. Every single one of our ancestors were connected to plants. They were or else your line would’ve died off. This is something that is very deep in our DNA and our intuition buried somewhere. Some people buried much, much deeper.

We are part of the natural world. We are part of an ecosystem. For me really, it is sensitivity. It’s just paying attention, really listening. If you do kill your plant, think about why you killed it before you just throw it away. Take a couple mental notes, apply it, buy the same plant, try again.

So finding a familiarity again and an intimacy with plants, I think that would solve a lot. They aren’t these mystical, mysterious creatures that are totally alien to us. They all surround us always, even if we’re in a major city. It’s like plants are in the planter beds and the windowsills inside. They’re all over. It’s just about paying attention.

This interview’s been editing for clarity and length. 

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Since houseplants are accustomed to living in a controlled environment, Lindsay Pangborn, a gardening expert at Bloomscape, says the key to keeping them alive while you’re away is ensuring the plants experience the same conditions as they do when you’re home. Below, the plant pro shares her top tips for doing just that. 

Keep the temperature the same

Before you hit the road, Pangborn recommends setting your thermostat to the same temperature you usually have it set when you’re home, if possible. “Any drastic change in temperature can seriously stress out your plant,” she says. 

Leave your blinds open

In addition to making the temperature just right for your plant babies, you must also ensure they get the ideal amount of light while you’re gone. To do so, leave the blinds open to allow the plants to soak up all that natural light. Pangborn also advises adjusting the plant’s position, so they don’t receive too much light. “For plants that need a full amount of sunlight, move them away from windows by a few feet, allowing them to still receive bright light without using up their water supply as quickly,” she says. 

If leaving the blinds open isn’t an option, Pangborn suggests investing in grow lights and timers that regulate light automatically. 

Give plants a good soak before you leave

Pencil in some time to give your plants a really good soak to best prepare for your time away. “Water deeply by allowing water to soak into the soil until it flows out from the bottom of the pot,” Pangborn says. “Leave your plants to drain for about 20 minutes before placing them back on their saucers.” Pro tip: Move the plants to the bath or shower when you do this to avoid making a mess and ensure you dump any excess water out of the saucers to avoid causing root rot. 

Create a humid environment

If you have plants in your collection that thrive on humidity and you typically have a humidifier running, there are some techniques for mimicking that environment. “Create a humid microclimate while away by grouping your plants together in a small room or space that receives natural daylight,” Pangborn says. 

To create extra moisture in the air, you can also make a pebble tray. “Place a layer of pebbles in a tray and add water to the top of the pebbles. Then, set your plants on top,” Pangborn says. “As water evaporates from the tray, it increases the humidity in the air, and the pebbles prevent the pot from sitting directly in water.”

Place outdoor plants in the shade

Outdoors plants, too, will need some love while you’re on holiday. Like with indoor plants, Pangborn advises giving them a thorough soak before leaving and moving them to a shaded, protected area where they are out of direct sunlight. “Full sun and windy conditions will cause the planters to dry out much more quickly,” she says. “A week or two in the shade won’t harm the long–term health of those plants.”

Trim outdoor flowering plants

For outdoor planters with flowering plants, it’s also important to trim any flowers before you head out of town. “This will slow down the use of water, reduce the chance of fungal growth, and while you’re away, the plants will work on producing new flowers—meaning you’ll have a new batch of fresh blooms to enjoy when you return,” Pangborn says. 

Invest in watering tools

For small indoor plants that require frequent watering, Pangborn recommends investing in watering tools such as capillary mats and watering bulbs, which you can snag at most gardening supply stores. Capillary mats are made out of cushiony, water-holding material. When plant pots are placed on top, the water is transferred from the mat into the soil. 

Watering bulbs, Pangborn explains, are typically made of glass and have a large spherical chamber filled with water attached to a long, thin neck. “As the plant’s soil medium dries out, more water is allowed to drain from the chamber into the soil, keeping it consistently moist,” she says. The bigger the plant, the bigger watering bulb you’ll need. 

Whether you use a capillary mat, a watering bulb, or other type of watering tool, Pangborn advises testing them out a few weeks before your trip to ensure your plants react well to them. With the help of these tools and all the above tips, your plant babies will be nourished for about two weeks. If you’re planning to be away longer than that, Pangborn says it’s best to ask a friend or family member to stop by and check in on your plants. 

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Best places to order flowers for Mother’s Day

Floom Whipped Cream — $155.00

Browse floral arrangements designed by a curated selection of independent florists on Floom. Because the arrangements are designed by local artisans, selections and prices vary by location, and the blooms never look generic. You can order up to four weeks ahead, and same-day delivery options are also available.

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Matilda's Bloombox — $39.00

Matilda’s Bloombox ships beautiful DIY floral arrangements across the country, complete with a flower fact card and easy-to-follow video showing you how to arrange the blooms. The arrangement changes week to week, and is made with local and in-season flowers; this helps support local growers and is additionally great for those of us who are bad at making decisions. A single subscription starts at $39.

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Bloomscape — $79.00

If your mom has a green thumb, try Bloomscape—the company will ship live plants right to her door. It has a large selection of both indoor and outdoor plants, including this adorable bromeliad pineapple ($65) that comes with its own pot.  Prices start at $25 for ready-to-plant petunias and can go up to $195 for something like an extra large ficus tree, but there are many options in the under-$100 range.

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FlowerBx — $60.00

Simple doesn’t necessarily mean boring, as evidenced by the gorgeous arrangements of a single type of flower—think Italian ranunculus, peonies, and snapdragons—from FlowerBx. (Seriously, they’re absolutely stunning in a vase and sure to get an IRL heart eyes emoji reaction). You can also gift mom a flower subscription, available as a weekly or monthly delivery. For curated Mother’s Day arrangements, prices range from $70 to $170.

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The Sill — $90.00

The Sill is known for its beautiful array of live plants that can be delivered across the U.S., but if mom doesn’t really have a green thumb there are also several limited-edition DIY floral bouquet kits available. Just be sure to place your order by Friday, April 30 to ensure your order arrives in time for Mother’s Day. Prices start at as low as $28 for a single plant to $250 for an assortment of succulents.

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1-800-Flowers — $62.00

This shop has pretty much all of your gifting bases covered, from flowers and plants to gift baskets and food. But the standout has to be the new collaboration with Jason Wu—five bouquets inspired by his latest ready-to-wear collection. Currently, you can find arrangements for under $50 or as high as $225 under Mother’s Day.

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Urban Stems — $70.00

Options, options, options describes the vast assortment of flowers, plants, and gifts available at Urban Stems. But don’t worry, it isn’t overwhelming—it’s easy to narrow things down by occasion, flower type, and collection. The flowers are sourced from Rainforest Alliance Certified farms, and next day nationwide delivery is available along with same-day delivery in NYC and DC. Note that bouquets range from $45 to $225.

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Shop Terrain — $98.00

Not only does this shop offer a range of different bouquets for you to gift Mom. But it also has all the essentials to satisfy her green thumb. This includes everything from garden tool kits and ceramic planters to watering cans and seeding to help start her own garden. However, if flowers are what you really want, prices throughout the site range from $68 to $128.

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The Bouqs — $84.00

If you’re not sure what to get Mom this year, let the The Bouqs Mother’s Day section help you decide. There, you’ll find a vast selection of gorgeous roses, tulips, sunflowers, lilies, and other freshly plucked flowers from different farms across the country.  As a bonus, next day delivery is available and a subscription can save you 30 percent off on your purchase right now. Just keep in mind, bouquets range from $49 $139.

 

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Venus et Fleur — $399.00

Flowers don’t last forever, but Venus et Fleur bouquets do—sort of. The luxe floral company has become popular for their Eternity Roses (aka flowers that live for a year or more). They’re cut in Ecuador, treated with natural oils and a non-toxic formula, then packaged in Parisian-like hat boxes before being shipped to you. But the best part? The flowers require very little water and are available in multiple colors. Just note, the smallest bouquet starts at $98 while the biggest arrangement checks out at $1,999.

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It's By You — $65.00

If you want to get Mom an interactive gift, consider getting an It’s By You DIY kit. Instead of selecting a pre-packaged arrangement, you have the power to play your own florist. The company will send you different blooms once a month (or based on your preference) along with instructions to arrange the flowers in a way you like. But for those who prefer to make a one-time purchase, you can pick up a floral kit anywhere between $30 and $65.

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Benchmark Bouquets Flowering Fields — $43.00

If you want to send some fresh flowers stat, these Benchmark Bouquets Flowering Fields on Amazon are here to rescue. All of their florals are hand-picked from local farms then delivered directly to you. By the way,  every arrangement arrives in the bud stage and will bloom over the next two to three days. This bouquet includes a mix of sunflowers, seasonal greens and other fresh flowers.

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So, how can you get around this reality to enjoy those seasonal pops of color for as long as possible? According to Lindsay Pangborn, gardening expert at Bloomscape, it’s possible to exert a bit of control over a number of spring blooms, so long as they’re indoor flowers. That’s because while it’s impossible to control the weather for outdoor flowers (which has implications on their health and longevity), components of an indoor climate is within the realm of management.

While it’s impossible to control the weather for outdoor flowers (which has implications on their health and longevity), indoor climate is within the realm of management.

But, before you go off buying daffodils in bulk, do keep in mind Pangborn’s top piece of general advice: “Buy the plant with the most buds and the fewest open blooms,” she says. “This means you’ll get to enjoy a longer flowering period, since you’ll be able to enjoy the blooms from the moment the flowers begin to open.”

Keep reading to learn four additional tips for making sure that, upon purchase, your indoor flowers’ spring blooms are intact for as long as possible.

4 tips to make spring blooms on your indoor potted flowers last longer

1. Take your plant home asap

Plants are sensitive to their environment, and they prefer consistency. “Once you’ve purchased your plant, take it straight home,” says Pangborn. “Plants are very sensitive to temperature changes, and even just a few minutes too long in a car that’s too hot or cold can cause significant damage.”

While this is a smart rule to follow with all indoor potted flowers, “there are definitely some plants less finicky than others,” Pangborn adds. “A few examples of hardier flowers include hyacinths, tulips, calla lilies, and kalanchoes.” More sensitive plants include hydrangeas, orchids, and African violets,” she says.

2. Choose a good spot in your home for your new plant

“Choose a spot out of direct sunlight, because that can cause the blooms to degrade faster,” says Pangborn. Additionally, she recommends placing the flowers in the center of the room, since that helps protect them from fluctuations in temperature and humidity (like when you open doors or windows).

3. Pay attention to your thermostat

“The cooler the temperature, the longer the blooms will last,” says Pangborn “The warmer the temperature, the faster the plant will use up its resources to grow and cycle through its blooming period, which equates to flowers aging faster.” She recommends keeping your space at a nice 70°F so that your plant baby has some consistency.

“The warmer the temperature, the faster the plant will use up its resources to grow and cycle through its blooming period, which equates to flowers aging faster.” —Lindsay Pangborn, gardening expert

However, dropping “the temperature to between 65°F and 68°F overnight can actually help prolong blooms quite a bit,” Pangborn adds. “This is true for most types of common potted flowering plants. Having slightly cooler nights allows the plant to cycle between active growth and rest, which closely mimics what they experience in their natural environment—and allows flowers to last longer.”

4. Check regularly if the plant needs water

If you’re a dedicated plant parent, you know that plants have their own watering schedule based on the type of plant, the lighting it’s getting, and the current climate it’s in. In order to have your spring blooms last longer, then, Pangborn says you should feel it out and water when the soil is about half dry. You can measure this by sticking your finger in the pot and sensing how wet the soil is and where it starts getting dry. You could also get a snazzy soil moisture meter, which will tell you the moisture level of your flowers’ soil.

“Letting the soil get too dry or keeping it too wet can cause the plant to drop blooms prematurely,” says Pangborn. Additionally, some potted flowering plants come in a decorative sleeve, which can hold water. “Be sure to dump any excess water that collects in the sleeve,” she adds. After all, you’re working so hard to keep your flowers blooming, and you don’t want to risk root rot.

Wondering how to water your plants without, um, killing them? Check out this video on watering plants:

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Although moving your plants outside sounds easy in theory (you just pick up the pots and put them on your porch, right?), the process is a little more complicated than that. Outdoor conditions are tricky for your plants to adapt to at first, so you’ll need to choose an ideal spot in your garden and coddle them for a couple weeks after their relocation. Below, Chris Satch, plant doctor with Horti, walks you through sending your plants on a summer vacay (to the backyard).

Which indoor plants you should move outside and when

All your plants can take a trip outside, but there is a caveat: You need to survey your garden and make sure the conditions are right. If you don’t have any shade, for example, you plants will probably live their best lives inside. “For all plants, ensure that they are moved into full shade for two weeks when first brought outdoors,” says Satch.

If your yard gets hours and hours of sunshine, consider moving them to a covered porch or simply keeping them indoors. Remember: we ultimately want your plants to live to see next spring, so don’t put them outside if there’s no ideal spot for them.

As for when you should move your indoor garden outdoors, Satch says that looking at the daily high and low temperatures in your area is key. “The first step to bringing plants outdoors is to monitor the temperature daily, paying attention to not just the highs, but also the lows of the day. It’s best to bring plants out when the night time low temperature is consistently about 55°F,” he explains. Otherwise, they could freeze and die—which wouldn’t been a great way to kickoff springtime, right?

How to move your indoor plants outside and pick the right location

Once the temperature is nestled in that above-55 sweet spot, you’re ready to migrate your plants outside. As Satch mentioned, you’ll want to keep your plants in full shade while they get accustomed to their new digs. “To acclimate your plants to outdoor light levels, put them in full shade outdoors for two weeks, then slowly move them to brighter areas, depending on how much light they need,” says Satch.

Succulents and cacti are sturdy desert plants. And thus, after leaving them in the shade for two weeks, you can move them to part-sun conditions for a day or two before placing them in their final summer spot in direct sunlight. “Low-light” plants and other tropical plants can stay in the shade or move to a spot where they’re only receive an hour or two of sunlight per day.

Now, you may be thinking: How will my plants grow if they don’t have any sun? Good question: “The solar energy is so powerful [outdoors] that your plants may double or triple in size after only one season outside,” says Satch. So even if your plants aren’t exactly sunbathing, they’re still soaking up the vitamin D they need to make gains as the warmer months go by.

Satch also recommends giving them a little fertilizer love once you’ve made the move.

The most common mistakes people make when moving indoor plants outside

1. Taking your plants outside too early in the season

As Satch has already warned, toting your plants outdoors too early in spring could lead to their early demise. Be patient and wait for weather upwards of 55°F, okay?

2. Choosing a spot that’s too windy

“Indoor plants haven’t been hardened enough to handle windy conditions, so you will need to put them in a location where they will not be battered by the wind, like near the house or close to some other wind-blocking obstacle,” Satch explains. If one day is going to be extra, extra windy, consider moving them inside until the air stills again.

3. Not checking for pests

Pests are a huge nuisance to your plants, according to Satch. “Insects will always be a problem when you put your plants outdoors, so let go of the perfectionist mindset that the leaves will always stay flawless,” he says. “Pests are expected, but an infestation is not. Usually, the beneficial insects in your yard ought to keep the pests in check, but occasionally, you will need to treat any largely infested plant with an insecticide of your choice.”

Despite potential infestations, relocating your plants outdoors is still worthwhile, says Satch. Remember that your plants will grow way faster and get to enjoy a new habitat for a while. (Plus, they’ll make your garden parties and backyard barbecues with friends so much prettier.)

4. Under-watering your plants

While your plants are calling the great outdoors their home, they will need a lot more water. The good news? You can depend on spring and summer showers to help you out. The not-so-great news? You’ll have to make sure to get out there with your watering can if it’s a hot, cloudless day. Make sure to check on your plants every other day to see how they’re doing, and read up on how often your specific plant varieties require some H2O.

5. Failing to monitor the temperatures in summer

Summer heatwaves are another threat to the health and well-being of your outdoor garden—so be on the lookout for unideal conditions. “You don’t have to pay attention to the highs until summertime, when it starts to get above 95°F,” says Satch. “During a heatwave, you will need to water [your plants] daily to help offset the heat getting water on the leaves will help cool them if applied in the early morning.” (Make sure you’re keeping yourself extra hydrated during the heatwave, too.)

When is it time to move your plants back inside?

Ah, so summer has come to an end and you’re wondering if it’s time to reintroduce your plants to the indoors? “It’s best to bring plants back in when the night time low temperature drops under 55°F,” says Satch. Hey, at least you’ll get to cozy up and enjoy the great indoors with them in the cooler months.

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Ahead, Erin Marino, director of brand marketing at The Sill, explains why dusting your greenery is key to being a good plant mom, how often you should clean them up, and how to spruce without harming them. Grab your duster (or cloth) and take care of the plant fam.

Why should you clean your plants in the first place?

If you’re thinking: “What’s wrong with a little dust! I’m sure my fiddle leaf fig can handle it”—Marino begs to differ.

“Plants can clean the air around them in two ways: physically and chemically. Physically, they purify the air by having a static charge and acting as a dust cling. That’s why you’ll notice some plants get so dusty—it’s because they’re actively removing the physical dust particles from the air surrounding them,” she explains. So just to reiterate that, your plants are already doing some dusting for you. (How cute!) But you have to make sure you’re taking care of them in return.

Why? Over time, these dust particles tend to build up, clogging the pores or your plants, which are called stomata. “These tiny pores are crucial for many plant functions—they allow oxygen to pass through for the process of respiration; they allow carbon dioxide to pass through for the process of photosynthesis; and they allow water vapor to pass through for the process of transpiration,” says Marino.

When these pores are blocked, these key gas exchanges can’t happen as efficiently and your indoor plants can’t live their best lives. So, you see, your fiddle leaf fig does need you—no matter how independent she seems.

How often do your plants need dusting?

It depends on how dusty your space gets, but generally, Marino recommends giving your plant babies a dusting every one to two months. “It’s more of a best practice. You could go longer, but it’s good to at least check your plants’ foliage every few weeks for dust buildup, signs of plants pests, or anything else out of the ordinary,” she says. “You might find, like I do, that giving your plants a little extra TLC here and there can be meditative to do, and rewarding to see the benefits of.”

The best methods for dusting plants

1. Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth

Grab a clean cloth, wet it, and wring it out until it’s just damp. Gently wipe the cloth over all the leaves of each plant. “If you want to include a little bit of diluted hand soap on your cloth, that’s fine too, just remember to dilute with water and stay clear of any harsh cleaners. I try to think of it like, if I wouldn’t wash my skin with it, I shouldn’t use it to wash my plants’ leaves either. I skip any leaf shine products, always, which can clog stomata just like dust would,” adds Marino.

2. Pass a duster (gently!) over the leaves

Dusting the rest of your place? Go ahead and include your plants in the spruce—just make sure that the duster is clean by the time you get to your ivies, ferns, and bamboos.

3. Brush your leaves and make it meditative

“If you enjoy the meditative process, you can get more detailed with it: Wet your cloth, or sponge, and wring out any excess water. Support each leaf with one hand gently from under and wipe down, away from the stem very carefully with the other hand. Get to the undersides too,” says Marino. Make sure you use a small, delicate brush for tinier leaves.

4. Rinse your plants’ leaves on watering day

We get it, we get it: You don’t always have time to spend hours tending to your plants. Luckily, Marino has a quick cleaning fix for those days. “Sometimes, if I’m short on time—or don’t want to waste paper towels—and know the plant will dry out quickly due to a sunny day, I’ll rinse their leaves under the sink while I water them. A quick rinse always does the trick of washing away any dust buildup,” she says. Once you’re through, gently shake your plants to rid their leaves of excess water that could cause fungal infections or brown spots.

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